The Cité Under Lockdown

Just like when I visited Toulouse during the same week, France had just lifted a national lockdown amid the covid-19 pandemic and kept some important restrictions in place: all restaurants and bars were shutdown, as were museums, cinemas and theatres. Only shops, grocery stores and religious edifices were allowed to be open. Wearing masks was mandatory across the whole city, and social distancing was practiced as much as possible. Lastly, a national curfew was in place between the hours of 8pm-6am. 

While the city center of Toulouse was quite busy amid the pandemic, the Cité de Carcassone was almost totally empty. Because it relies heavily on tourism, it is clear the town suffered from the situation probably more than many other cities. I had visited the cité ten years ago in August and it was incredibly busy – so much so, that it sometimes made it hard to enjoy the visit. Every restaurant, store, nook and cranny was bustling. So you can imagine how wandering through the empty zigzaging cobbled streets of the cité felt completely surreal this time. I felt privileged to enjoy this magical site in such a quiet atmosphere and take the time to truly appreciate the charm of this medieval town. It was of course bittersweet and sad (for businesses & restaurants) to find the site so empty, but it truly made for an unforgettable moment.

A few things to know about La Cité de Carcassonne 

Carcassonne is located in the south of France about 80 kilometres (40min train-ride) from Toulouse, and a 5-5:30hr train ride from Paris. The city of Carcassonne is divided in two distincts part: the “Ville Basse” (newer part) where most locals live and work, and the medieval fortified upper citadel that is the main touristic site – attracting over 4 million visitors every year.

La Cité de Carcassonne is a medieval fortress dating back to the Gallo-Roman period. It is composed of two outer walls – that you can contour from the outside on foot – with parapets, spiky towers and barbicans. The inner Cité is an enticing zig zag of cobbled streets, tiny museums, shops, cafes, restaurants, a beautiful Basilique Saint-Nazaire and several charming squares and terraces. Entrance inside the citadel is free and open year-round. 

While I can’t offer you any restaurant or shop recommendations (hopefully I’ll be able to do that another time!), here are a few photos of this pandemic-version of Carcassonne – almost empty, almost unreal. Enjoy!

Note: This article is simply to share my personal experience of visiting  Carcassonne during the Covid-19 pandemic. Of course, this article isn’t to promote un-cautious/un-essential travelling or tourism at this time. Should you have to travel, I encourage you to remain as safe and mindful as possible.

Did you enjoy this article?

Please let me know by leaving a comment below! And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Carcassonne, please feel free to share them.

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How did these restrictions and the pandemic translate in the city? 

As we were just one week away from December 25th, Toulouse locals still flocked daily to stores to complete their Christmas shopping, which resulted in a pretty crowded city center during my whole stay. After a one-month lockdown, people were eager to finally get out, shop their heart out, order take-out food and walk around their favorite city to admire Christmas lights and decorations – before having to rush home for the curfew. 

However, the outskirts of the city center were very quiet, and some streets mostly empty. The only flurry came early in the morning from people lining up to go inside bakeries, or lining up to get a covid test in a pharmacy or one of the testing stations scattered around the city, under big white tents. A sense of normalcy was definitely not here, and the feeling of sometimes wandering into a ghost-town was very much present.  

No dining out, no drinks, no museums, no shows. 

It wasn’t of course the best setting to visit Toulouse. Yet, surprisingly, these unique circumstances led me to (re)visit Toulouse with a fresh outlook. I got to see Toulouse without any frills and felt privileged to enjoy a quiet city in its bare state. I was able to focus on the city’s architecture, learn its history, and grasp its original essence, with no distractions. While I initially feared the lack of activities, it turned out to be quite liberating. I embraced taking time to admire Toulouse’s Roman buildings. I truly felt the intimate vibes in the sinuous cobbled streets of the medieval center. I enjoyed taking endless walks along the empty banks of the Garonne River. 

A different way of tourism 

This was really a different way to visit a city – masked up, slowed down, and only seeing things from the exterior. But in the end, this pandemic-version of Toulouse made my trip all the more memorable, while immensely pleasant at the same time. I enjoyed the city in a way I probably never would have in other circumstances. 

A few things to know about Toulouse 

Toulouse is France’s 4th largest city (after Paris, Lyon and Marseilles) and is a 4:30hr train ride from Paris. With a major University campus network, the city houses a very large student population which makes it a very lively city, known for its busy nightlife. Yet several parts of the city are very family-friendly. With an important immigrant population, the city enjoys both Spanish and Arabic influences present in its cuisine, shops and general vibe. While a large city, Toulouse has a human-sized center that can be visited by foot, with all major sites within walking distance. 

For the French, Toulouse is known for its relaxed lifestyle, proud locals, its aerospace industry, its rugby fans, having drinks on the banks of the Garonne River, eating Cassoulet and for being “La Ville Rose”. 

Why is Toulouse called “La Ville Rose” (the pink city)? 

Distinctive pink tiles and clay bricks were used to construct many buildings around the city, giving Toulouse a unique charm. Depending on their baking time, the bricks (known as “briques foraines”) vary from light pink, to coral, to deep orange. The colors vary throughout the day too – vibrant at sunset, pale pink in the sun and deeper under the rain. 

Top things to see in Toulouse: 

• Place du Capitole – The Cap’ (as the locals say) is the heart of Toulouse. This large esplanade hosts the impressive Capitole building, home to the town hall and the Théâtre du Capitole. 
• Basilique Saint-Sernin – a World Unesco Site, this XI century basilica is one of the largest Roman buildings in the Occident. 
• Couvent des Jacobins – A beautiful Southern Gothic Art church and convent, adorned by a unique vault reminding of a palm tree.
• Hôtel d’Assézat – A 16TH century French Renaissance Hotel particulier, now home to an Art Galery (the Georges Bemberg’s Foundation). 
• Musée de Augustins – Toulouse’s Fine Art museum.
• Musée Saint-Raymond – Toulouse’ archeological & Antiquities museum. 
• Cathédrale Saint-Étienne 
• Eglise Notre Dame de la Dalbade 
• Canal du Midi 
• Canal de Brienne
• Pont Neuf 
• Quai de la Daurade 
• Place Saint Pierre
• Le Jardin des Plantes 
• Le Jardin Japonais 
• Marché Victor Hugo 
• Marché des Carmes 

What specialties to eat in Toulouse: 

• Cassoulet 
• Aligot 
• Toulouse sausage 
• Foie gras 
• Duck confit 
• Gâteau à la broche
• Fenetra 
• Apple Croustade
• Violet candies

And here are a few photos from my stay in Toulouse during the pandemic… enjoy! 

Last photos are of an Aligot (cheesy mashed potatoes) and Fenetra pastry (tart filled with apicot jam, candied lemon peel and almond meringue) – two local specialties. 

Did you enjoy this article? 

Please let me know by leaving a comment below to let me know if you enjoyed it. And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Toulouse, please feel free to share them. 

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Far from the classic-French vibe of Paris, Lille offered the promise of a singular French city with a strong Flemish influence. The quirky architecture, the kind people, the best beer and amazing food… you won’t find any other place like it in France, they say. And that was more than enough to entice me.

It is not well known that Lille is accessible from Paris by a short 1 train-ride (on that topic, many people work in Paris and actually live in Lille). So I decided to book a 1-day return ticket (train from Paris Gare du Nord at 8:00AM and return from Lille Flanders at 5:00PM – you can get your tickets on SNCF, the national train operator). As I arrived in the Lille Flanders train station at 9:00AM, located right the heart of the city, I was all set for spending a great day in Lille. I spent the whole day, map in hand, travelling by foot across the city and was able to hit all the locations I wanted to. Turns out, Lille is perfect for a 1-day visit and the entire city is easily navigated by foot.

Here is the recount of this great day, with all the stops I took (with walking distance in-between them), including the food I ate. I hope you enjoy it, and if you know Lille and/or have more recommendations to share, please write a comment – I’d love to hear them!

Rue Faidherbe and Place du General Charles de Gaule

Right out of the Lille Flanders train station, I walked on Rue Faidherbe– the main shopping avenue leading out of the station – towards the Place du General Charles de Gaule, known to be Lille’s main plaza, in the heart of the city (5 min. walk).  The Place is a great first stop when discovering Lille for the first time, as it is surrounded by the city’s signature architectural style: yellow and orange edifices, with several of them classified as “historical buildings”, including the Theatre and the Old Stock Exchange. The Place is today the site of all of Lille’s main festivals and events. As I was there during an early December morning, a festive Ferris Wheel was there and stalls for the Christmas market were being installed. I took some time to glance through bakery windows and spotted a few Tartes Au Sucre, a speciality of the city and Manelles, the traditional St Nicholas man-shaped brioche buns.

Rue Esquermoise

In search of a breakfast spot, I then walked North on Rue Esquermoise, a street leading to Lille’s Old Center and filled with bakeries and little shops (5 min walk). Lured by all the delicious-looking pastries in the windows, I stopped at the Valerie & Raphael Brier’s Bakery, which has a “Salon de thé” (tea room). I ordered a coffee and a “Brioche au Sucre”, another specialty of the city, which was a billowy brioche bun nestled with sugar chunks – absolutely delicious. The tea room was quaint yet very pleasant, and I loved sitting at my table and enjoying my brioche while looking at the staff working their way through the bakery, grabbing freshly-baked goods from the back and placing them on the stalls.

Quai Wault

After breakfast, I wandered a bit through the Old Town and then walked in a North-West direction towards the Quai Wault (10-15 min. walk). The Quai Wault is one of the two old ports of the city and displays colorful brick-and-blue facades (well worth taking a look at), including the Couvent des Minimes – a former convent build in the typical Flemish style, now reconverted into a luxury hotel.

Wazemmes Market

From Quai Wault, I made my way South towards the Wazemmes Market (20 min walk). This covered market is one of the biggest in France, featuring stalls of food, flowers and other typical market bounties. The Market is a bit on the outskirts of the city’s center, and not located in the most attractive area, but it is definitely still well worth a visit.

Notre-Dame de La Treille

From the market, I walked back North towards the iconic Basilica Notre-Dame de La Treille, Lille’s Cathedral (20 min walk). The architectural style of the basilica is pretty strict and modern (Gothic Revival) and sure contrasts with the rest of the city. The building is considered a national monument and is indeed massive, in style and size. It is well worth taking the time to visit the insides and stare at the stained glass – modern and very unique. Once you’ve visited the cathedral, make sure you also walked around and behind the building. I was pleasantly surprised to find rows of cute pink, white and yellow facades – offering even more contrasts with the religious edifice.

Place aux Oignons

After Notre-Dame de La Treille, I was just a few steps away from the Place aux Oignons (2 min. walk). This is one of the must-sees in Lille. It is a quaint little place surround by pretty bucolic houses (far more sobre in style than the later, typical Flemish style) and tight cobbled streets. You can spend minutes or hours wandering in and around the place and stop in all the little shops. As it was lunch time, I entered an “Estaminet” (what you call bistros that serve typical food and drinks in the North of France), Les Vieux d’La Vieille, located right on the Place aux Oignons. The restaurant’s décor, location, food and service were all great (highly recommended!). I had a delicious “Soupe aux Chicons” for starter (an endive and cream soup) and a scrumptious “Gratin Picard” as a main (a simple crepe filled with ham and endive, and topped with a hefty piece of Maroilles).

Rue de La Monnaie, Place du Lyon d’Or, Rue Saint Jacques and Parc Henri-Matisse

With a full and happy stomach, I kept wandering around the Place des Onions and on the busy Rue de La Monnaie, one of the oldest and most picturesque streets of the city. There, I couldn’t help but peek into the windows of “Aux Merveilleux de Fred” (2 min walk) a renowned pastry shop. In the back, I watched (for several minutes) the pastry chefs making the city’s famous “Gauffres Lilloises” (sugar-and-butter-filled thin waffles, cousins of the Stroopwaffles) and “Merveilleux”, a pastry made of two meringues stuck together with chocolate whipped cream and rolled in chocolate shavings. I then stepped in and bought 2 dozen waffles to bring home (they are sold wrapped in shiny, sturdy paper and can keep for days – so they were suited to travelling a day in my suitcase to Canada). I then continued walking towards the pretty Place du Lyon d’Or (3 min walk) and onto Rue Saint Jacques to reach the quieter and modern Parc Henri-Matisse (10 min walk.)

Maison Méert

As my time in Lille was nearing its end, I couldn’t NOT make a stop at the iconic Maison Méert, one of the oldest pastry shops in the world (10 min walk). Apart from having the most stunning facade and making outstanding chocolates, spiced breads and candies, the pastry house is mostly renowned for making the best thin stuffed waffles in the city. Of course, I had one, and it was in fact everything I wished for… creamy, sugary, soft and fragrant. ( I wished I bought more to take home, but I already had a bag full of waffles from Aux Merveilleux de Fred, which I tasted once home and ended up being absolutely delicious too – so you should visit both places!)

La Vieille Bourse (Old Stock Exchange)  

Lastly, before heading back to the Lille Flanders Train Station, I headed back to the Place du General Charles de Gaule to visit the Old Stock Exchange (known as the “Vieille Bourse”), another landmark of the city (5 min walk). In the form of a quandrangle, the building encloses an inner courtyard that is now inhabited during the day with old antique stalls, old book sellers, flower stalls and chess players. The kind of place where you could linger for hours and just soak in the moment. Sadly, I had to get back to realty and make my way to the Lilles Flandres Train Station (7 min walk), and hopped on my train back to Paris…

Visiting Lille – whether you’re coming from Paris by train for a day or are just in the area – is such an (un)expected treat. It’s a grandiose looking, yet human-sizes city, well suited for spending just a day or two. It’s a city for wandering in the old cobbled streets and taking in the unique Flemish vibe, that surely contrasts with the rest of France. The ochre-brick-walled builidings, reminiscent of the factory-run economy of the area, and the heavily ornamented Flemish-styled yellow edifices offer bursts of colours against the moody grey sky. But thankfully, the food, earthy (for the savory) and sugar-focused (for the sweet) is well-suited for this colder-weather region: comforting, generous and always scrumptious. Last but not least, people from the Hauts-de-France are well known to wear their heart on their sleeve, and just one day of being there was enough to prove to me, it is in fact so very true.

Roundup of places and food to eat while in Lille:

Where to go & what to see: Rue Faidherbe; Place du General Charles de Gaule; Old Stock Exchange; Rue de La Monnaie; Place du Lyon d’Or; Parc Henri-Matisse; Rue Esquermoise ; Place aux Oignons ; Basilica Notre-Dame de La Treille ; Wazemmes Market ; Couvent des Minimes ; Quai Wault

Where to eat: Valerie & Raphael Brier’s Bakery; Les Vieux d’La Vieille; Aux Merveilleux de Fred ; Maison Méert ; Wazemmes Market

What specialities to eat: Tartes Au Sucre; Merveilleux; Sugar-filled Waffles; Ficelle Picarde; Carbonnade Flamande ; Maroille Cheese; Soupe au Chicon ; Waterzooi ; Beer Welsh.

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Porto, Europe’s New Hot Spot ? – 

As we were spending a few weeks in my hometown in France, my husband and I decided to hop on a plane and treated ourselves with a 3 day stay in Porto. Did we expect to fall in love with Porto? I would say no. But fresh fish, port wine and picturesque strolls were enough to entice us. Did we fall in love with Porto? You bet we did!

Unassuming at first, Porto savagely depicts soaring woven streets of crumbly façades, lavish baroque churches, and flamboyant splashes of azulejos (traditional hand-painted blue tiles). But as we ventured behind the shadows of these cultural vestiges, we were hit by bustling modernity and a jubilant crowd.

All around the city, it truly felt like a revival was in full-swing. And it might just be the food scene where the evolution was the most spectacular to us.

Where to Eat & Drink in Portugal’s Food Capital – 

Surely, the Portuguese are very proud of their gastronomic heritage, and eating traditional specialities in one of the tasquinhas (typical tavern) is still a must, to capture a sense of the local atmosphere. Traditionally, you will have a choice between the infamous Francesinnha sandwich or a plate of Bacalhau à moda Do Porto (dried and salted cod served on a bed of onions, tomatoes, potatoes and olives), along with a Super Bock beer or sparkly sangria.  And for dessert, fit in a typical Porto éclair (from Leitaria Da Quinta Do Paco) or drop-by the world-renowned Café Majestic (where J.K Rowling began to write the adventures of a certain Harry Potter) for sweet treats and a decadent hot chocolate.

My Favorite Places and Food Finds – 

Once you’ve completed this food mission, I suggest you try these other addresses I am sharing with you today. Some traditional. Some modern. Some well-known. Some underrated.

All tested, approved and raved about.

Although I have no pretention to offer a proficient food guide of the city, I still pledge that these exquisite spots will take on you on a marvellous food adventure in Porto. Bon appétit, or aproveite sua refeição!

Ribeira

Spinning along the Douro River, the streets of Ribeira takes you on a one-of-a-kind picturesque and hypnotic experience. The crumbling pastel facades of this historical district – a Unesco World Heritage site – hang over the beating heart of the city and offer an iconic view to the gawkers sailing on their rabelos (the traditional port wine cargo boats). Perched on the Muro dos Bacalhoeiros (a segment of the town’s medieval wall), we picked Bacalhau for our first dinner, a tiny restaurant with tables hanging right from the stone hedge, with a stunning view over the river. If you are yearning for a true taste of the Portuguese Bacalhau (cod fish), fresh from the sea, you are in the right place.  As a starter, try the Chips De Bacalhau (cod skins chips) served with an outrageous tomato cream. Then, opt for the Arroz de Bacalhau: perfectly fried cod tongues laid on a bed of succulent tomato rice. 

✎    Bacalhau Restaurant, Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 154

Cais da Ribeira

From dusk to dawn, the Cais da Ribeira (the main esplanade along the Douro River) never empties. The scenic and much-frequented walkway offers locals and vacationers a puzzling selection of touristy cafes, fancy lounge bars and seemingly-authentic/seemingly-fresh seafood brasseries. In the middle of the turmoil, stands a little gem of creamery – Finzi Gelato – serving amazing batches of house-crafted ice-creams. Their speciality, the peanut ice-cream, is an absolute wonder. For those wondering, it does not taste like peanut butter… no, it’s pure and pristine peanut taste. If you are in a fruitier mood, try the yogurt and blueberry flavour, for the perfect tart and peppy mix. Needless to say we dropped by everyday (and maybe more than once a day …).

✎  Finzi Gelato, Cais da Ribeira 45

Along the Rio Douro 

Further west along the Douro Shores, in a quieter neighborhood you will find Papavinhos, a small, family-run restaurant serving authentic and local food. Don’t be fooled by its unassuming looks, the eatery is the great delight of locals and tourists, and you will most likely need a reservation if you want a chance to dine there. The plates are generous and cheap. There are no gourmet recipes here, just real, genuine food served by the friendly owner. Try the octopus in spicy oil, as a starter, or as a main in the form of an epic giant tentacle. For dessert, treat yourself with one of the owner’s wife’s home-made desserts – we had the cookie cream in a jar… it was to die for.

✎  Papavinhos, Rua Monchique, 23

Rua Das Flores

While you take a stroll in the bustling Rua Das Flores, make sure to stop by the charming Chocolataria Das Flores. The lovely façade and cozy café built its fame on its artisan chocolates and homestyle brunch menu (quiches, salads and pies). But I myself was enticed by the tiny counter inside, displaying a luscious-looking choice of baked goods, including some scrumptious Pastels de Nata, the traditional Portuguese egg tarts. At this point, you just don’t have any other choice but to try one, or two.

✎  Chocolataria das Flores, Rua das Flores, 121

Further down the street, sit down on Confeitaria Bella Doce’s patio and revel in some people watching and a couple of bolos (Portuguese cakes). If you are being sage, have a simple Queque (the Portuguese version of a muffin) or a Chocolate Croissant. But if you are in a naughtier mood, succumb to a scrumptious Coconut Macaroon (it was the best I had in my entire life!).  Terribly sweet, sticky and sinful… but oh so worth it.

✎  Confeitaria Bella Doce, Rua das Flores, 303

Avenida dos Aliados

It is an unfamiliar fact, but Porto’s locals are deeply in love with stewed tripe. So much so, that they proudly embrace the epithet of “Tripeiros” (tripe eaters). If you wander around the fancy Aliados District on a Sunday, make a lunch stop like we did at the Guarany Café, one of the last survivors of authentic Portuguese bistros in the city. As we were being charmed by the glitzy decors, we started with a delicious and creamy Caldo Verde, a cabbage and potato soup. Then, of course, we gorged on the infamous Tripas A Moda Do Porto: tripes cooked with white beans and chunks of pork, chicken and beef.  Rich, flavourful, yet humble. A must-try. 

✎  Guarany Café, Avenida dos Aliados, 85/89

Mercado do Bolhão

 While in the Mercado do Bolhão, lose track of time and get lost in aisles of seasonal fruits and veggies, generous meat chops and fresh fish feasts. Just before noon hits, follow the smell of grilled sardines coming from the center square of the market, sit down by one of the bustling fish-stands and prepare yourself for one heck of a meal. We wanted that craggy, real Portuguese food experience, and we got it. Make sure to order the spicy clams, small fried sardines and a plate of freshly grilled large sardines. The shell’s insides were tender and oozy; the fish came crisp and salty; the scratched-written bill displayed shades of oil stains and our fingers stunk of fried fish for days. Just the way market fish should be enjoyed.

✎  Mercado do Bolhão, Rua de Fernandes Tomás

Vila Nova de Gaia

Of course, no trip to Porto would be complete without a tasting of Port Wine. The city’s iconic wine lodges (where the wines are stored for ageing, until ready to export) have found the perfect nest in Vila Nova de Gaia, on the southern banks of the Douro. To cross the river and access Vila Nova Gaia, walk on the majestic double-decker Ponte de Dom Luís I, which will offer you a sky-high miradouro (lookout) over the banks.

Once passed through the busy bar facades, chances are you will be tantalized by the sinuous hilly backstreets of the valley. Grand lacy wine cellar gates will great you one after the other – but if you are looking for a quieter experience, Croft Caves will be your choice.

This small but elegant family-own cellar, offers English tasting tours which takes its visitors through the entrails of their peaceful stone cellar. As we entered, the musty scent of aging woods and mellow grapes produced a soothing atmosphere, and the staff honoured the genuine, humble spirit of the establishment. On the tour, we learnt all about the fascinating making and ageing of port wine, and reveled in hearing about the ancient rumours and current gossips stirring the lives of the multiple wineries lodged along the Douro River.

Far less notorious (and frilly) than Taylors, Sandeman or Offley, tiny Croft was nonetheless the very first winery to produce Port Rosé – a subtly sweet and sparkly fruity wine, perfect for the warm summer nights or paired with dessert during the winter season. We ended the tour on a high note with a tasting of their 10-year old Tawny (A Tawny Port is a blend of older vintage wines, displaying a rich amber color), by far the best Port wine I have ever tasted.

✎  Croft, Rua Barão de Forrester, 412 – Vila Nova de Gaia

Address Book

For the best Francesinha in Porto – 

✎ Café Santiago, Rua de Passos Manuel, 266

For the refined, modern decor and  the fluffiest Porto eclairs – 

✎ Leitaria Da Quinta Do Paco, Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, 47/51

For the stunning Art Nouveau Decor and the best hot chocolate – 

✎ Café Majestic, Rua Santa Catarina, 112

For the romantic river-side setting, the crispy Chips De Bacalhau (cod skin chips) and Arroz de Bacalhau Pot ( fried cod tongues in tomatoe rice) – 

✎   Bacalhau Restaurant, Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 154

For a sun-bathed patio and the best peanut ice-cream – 

✎  Finzi Gelato, Cais da Ribeira 45

For the friendly owner, the octopus and the scrumptious wife’s owner home-made desserts

✎  Papavinhos, Rua Monchique, 23

For the brunch menu, the pastel de nata (egg tart) and artisan chocolates – 

✎  Chocolataria das Flores, Rua das Flores, 121

For people watching and traditional pastries (queque, pastel de nata, chocolate croissant and coconut macaroon) – 

✎  Confeitaria Bella Doce, Rua das Flores, 303

For the autentic bistro-feel, the creamy caldo verde (cabbage & potatoe soup) and a plate of Tripes A Moda Da Porto

✎  Guarany Café, Avenida dos Aliados, 85/89

For the bustling atmosphere, the fried and grilled sardines and fresh clams – 

✎  Mercado do Bolhão, Rua de Fernandes Tomás

 For a genuine, family-own port wine cellar visit and a glass of refreshing Port Wine Rosé– 

✎  Croft Caves, Rua Barão de Forrester, 412 – Vila Nova de Gaia

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