The Cité Under Lockdown

Just like when I visited Toulouse during the same week, France had just lifted a national lockdown amid the covid-19 pandemic and kept some important restrictions in place: all restaurants and bars were shutdown, as were museums, cinemas and theatres. Only shops, grocery stores and religious edifices were allowed to be open. Wearing masks was mandatory across the whole city, and social distancing was practiced as much as possible. Lastly, a national curfew was in place between the hours of 8pm-6am. 

While the city center of Toulouse was quite busy amid the pandemic, the Cité de Carcassone was almost totally empty. Because it relies heavily on tourism, it is clear the town suffered from the situation probably more than many other cities. I had visited the cité ten years ago in August and it was incredibly busy – so much so, that it sometimes made it hard to enjoy the visit. Every restaurant, store, nook and cranny was bustling. So you can imagine how wandering through the empty zigzaging cobbled streets of the cité felt completely surreal this time. I felt privileged to enjoy this magical site in such a quiet atmosphere and take the time to truly appreciate the charm of this medieval town. It was of course bittersweet and sad (for businesses & restaurants) to find the site so empty, but it truly made for an unforgettable moment.

A few things to know about La Cité de Carcassonne 

Carcassonne is located in the south of France about 80 kilometres (40min train-ride) from Toulouse, and a 5-5:30hr train ride from Paris. The city of Carcassonne is divided in two distincts part: the “Ville Basse” (newer part) where most locals live and work, and the medieval fortified upper citadel that is the main touristic site – attracting over 4 million visitors every year.

La Cité de Carcassonne is a medieval fortress dating back to the Gallo-Roman period. It is composed of two outer walls – that you can contour from the outside on foot – with parapets, spiky towers and barbicans. The inner Cité is an enticing zig zag of cobbled streets, tiny museums, shops, cafes, restaurants, a beautiful Basilique Saint-Nazaire and several charming squares and terraces. Entrance inside the citadel is free and open year-round. 

While I can’t offer you any restaurant or shop recommendations (hopefully I’ll be able to do that another time!), here are a few photos of this pandemic-version of Carcassonne – almost empty, almost unreal. Enjoy!

Note: This article is simply to share my personal experience of visiting  Carcassonne during the Covid-19 pandemic. Of course, this article isn’t to promote un-cautious/un-essential travelling or tourism at this time. Should you have to travel, I encourage you to remain as safe and mindful as possible.

Did you enjoy this article?

Please let me know by leaving a comment below! And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Carcassonne, please feel free to share them.

The post La Cité de Carcassonne, during a pandemic. appeared first on Pardon Your French.

How did these restrictions and the pandemic translate in the city? 

As we were just one week away from December 25th, Toulouse locals still flocked daily to stores to complete their Christmas shopping, which resulted in a pretty crowded city center during my whole stay. After a one-month lockdown, people were eager to finally get out, shop their heart out, order take-out food and walk around their favorite city to admire Christmas lights and decorations – before having to rush home for the curfew. 

However, the outskirts of the city center were very quiet, and some streets mostly empty. The only flurry came early in the morning from people lining up to go inside bakeries, or lining up to get a covid test in a pharmacy or one of the testing stations scattered around the city, under big white tents. A sense of normalcy was definitely not here, and the feeling of sometimes wandering into a ghost-town was very much present.  

No dining out, no drinks, no museums, no shows. 

It wasn’t of course the best setting to visit Toulouse. Yet, surprisingly, these unique circumstances led me to (re)visit Toulouse with a fresh outlook. I got to see Toulouse without any frills and felt privileged to enjoy a quiet city in its bare state. I was able to focus on the city’s architecture, learn its history, and grasp its original essence, with no distractions. While I initially feared the lack of activities, it turned out to be quite liberating. I embraced taking time to admire Toulouse’s Roman buildings. I truly felt the intimate vibes in the sinuous cobbled streets of the medieval center. I enjoyed taking endless walks along the empty banks of the Garonne River. 

A different way of tourism 

This was really a different way to visit a city – masked up, slowed down, and only seeing things from the exterior. But in the end, this pandemic-version of Toulouse made my trip all the more memorable, while immensely pleasant at the same time. I enjoyed the city in a way I probably never would have in other circumstances. 

A few things to know about Toulouse 

Toulouse is France’s 4th largest city (after Paris, Lyon and Marseilles) and is a 4:30hr train ride from Paris. With a major University campus network, the city houses a very large student population which makes it a very lively city, known for its busy nightlife. Yet several parts of the city are very family-friendly. With an important immigrant population, the city enjoys both Spanish and Arabic influences present in its cuisine, shops and general vibe. While a large city, Toulouse has a human-sized center that can be visited by foot, with all major sites within walking distance. 

For the French, Toulouse is known for its relaxed lifestyle, proud locals, its aerospace industry, its rugby fans, having drinks on the banks of the Garonne River, eating Cassoulet and for being “La Ville Rose”. 

Why is Toulouse called “La Ville Rose” (the pink city)? 

Distinctive pink tiles and clay bricks were used to construct many buildings around the city, giving Toulouse a unique charm. Depending on their baking time, the bricks (known as “briques foraines”) vary from light pink, to coral, to deep orange. The colors vary throughout the day too – vibrant at sunset, pale pink in the sun and deeper under the rain. 

Top things to see in Toulouse: 

• Place du Capitole – The Cap’ (as the locals say) is the heart of Toulouse. This large esplanade hosts the impressive Capitole building, home to the town hall and the Théâtre du Capitole. 
• Basilique Saint-Sernin – a World Unesco Site, this XI century basilica is one of the largest Roman buildings in the Occident. 
• Couvent des Jacobins – A beautiful Southern Gothic Art church and convent, adorned by a unique vault reminding of a palm tree.
• Hôtel d’Assézat – A 16TH century French Renaissance Hotel particulier, now home to an Art Galery (the Georges Bemberg’s Foundation). 
• Musée de Augustins – Toulouse’s Fine Art museum.
• Musée Saint-Raymond – Toulouse’ archeological & Antiquities museum. 
• Cathédrale Saint-Étienne 
• Eglise Notre Dame de la Dalbade 
• Canal du Midi 
• Canal de Brienne
• Pont Neuf 
• Quai de la Daurade 
• Place Saint Pierre
• Le Jardin des Plantes 
• Le Jardin Japonais 
• Marché Victor Hugo 
• Marché des Carmes 

What specialties to eat in Toulouse: 

• Cassoulet 
• Aligot 
• Toulouse sausage 
• Foie gras 
• Duck confit 
• Gâteau à la broche
• Fenetra 
• Apple Croustade
• Violet candies

And here are a few photos from my stay in Toulouse during the pandemic… enjoy! 

Last photos are of an Aligot (cheesy mashed potatoes) and Fenetra pastry (tart filled with apicot jam, candied lemon peel and almond meringue) – two local specialties. 

Did you enjoy this article? 

Please let me know by leaving a comment below to let me know if you enjoyed it. And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Toulouse, please feel free to share them. 

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