Mont St Michel, definitely, is one of those places.

During our past trip to France, this last Fall, I couldn’t resist taking a quick trip to Normandy revisit this iconic landmark. Obviously, being September, we prepared ourselves for a crowd-filled day (which is exactly what we got), but we were still able to make a great day out of it.

Mont Saint-Michel is one of the great wonders of the world and is the second most visited attraction in France, after the Eiffel tower (3 million visitors each year!). The reality is, no matter what day of the year or time of day you visit Mont St Michel, it will be jam-packed. But that definitely shouldn’t deter you from going.

Set where Normandy and Brittany merge, Mont Saint-Michel island is surrounded by stunning sandy bay, with the highest tides in Europe. A mere 3 hour drive from Paris, its tantalizing shadow draws the eye from great distances, predicting a magical experience to all modern day “pilgrimers”. 

Allow at least 2 to 3 hours to explore the island and the abbey, or 4 to 5 hours if you plan on grabbing a bite to eat, and to indulge in all the delicacies the region has to offer (which you definitely should do).

If you’re more interested in knowing what to eat when at Mont Saint-Michel – skip directly to the end of this article.

Walking your way to the Island

For myself, one of the best parts of the day was our walk towards Mont Saint-Michel. Cars aren’t allowed near the island (to preserve the shoreline) and are to be left in one of the massive parking lots built 1.5 miles away. You can then chose to take a free shuttle to the island (5 minute ride) or take a 30 minute walk, on an elevated bridge – which I recommend you do! Walking to the Mont is a truly magical feeling. As you walk closer and closer, the sight of Mont-Saint-Michel becomes increasingly mesmerizing – with its Monastery atop it, seemingly defying gravity more and more with each step towards it.

Close to the island’s entrance, if tides are high, the island is completely surrounded by sea. If tides are low, resist the urge to step out of the paved way to wander on the surrounding sand – it’s quicksand! And you will most likely end up with sand up to your knees and your shoes completely ruined. Basically, just like I did.

Looking over the crowd to find the beauty

Once inside, chances are you will discover this picture-perfect village to be intensely busy. But still, if you gloss-over this, the sinuous stoned streets in the Mont Village can offer you a delightfully typical Normandy experience, from yesteryear.

Try to make abstractions of the touristy shops and snack bars that unfortunately took over the small houses, and instead look up at the antique shields hanging atop their doors. As you make your way up to the Abbey, hop freely onto the few stairways nested in between walls, on the right or left of the main street, which often lead to some quieter gardens or cemeteries.

At the top, take some time to enjoy the breath-taking view of the bay, before visiting the 11^th-century abbey. Be prepared to mingle with the crowds and wait in line a bit. But I guarantee you will still experience some of the beauty of this medieval pilgrimage.

People are all about travelling off of the beaten path these days (which is surely a great, if not the best way to experience a city or a country). But I believe that when it comes to some countries like France, there are some places that are just too iconic to be missed, even if touristy. Mont St Michel didn’t gain its fame for no reason. It is majestic, mesmerizing, and even mystical some might say. It shaped a whole country’s history, and still shapes its culture, economy and prestige, today.

Never mind the crowds, the knick-knack shops and seemingly-authentic bistros that took over the main street of the once-authentic village. I believe spending a day at Mont St Michel is still something one must experience in their lifetime.  

What to eat at Mont Saint-Michel?

The “agneau de pré-salé”

If you’re lucky on your visit to the island, you will catch a glimpse at one or two herds of the iconic black-headed lambs inhabiting the Mont St Michel Bay. Known in French as the “agneaux de pré-salé”, these lambs are in fact a world-renowned culinary delicacy. They graze in the salt marsh meadows of the Bay, covered by green halophyte grasses. These grasslands, which have high salinity and iodine content, are raved by the lambs, which in return produce a delicate meat with a unique flavor and tenderness. Truly, a perfect example of terroir cuisine – where a region’s climate, landscape and environment can produce a one-of-a-kind food specialty. A piece of “agneaux de pré-salé” is a specialty dish in and around the Mont Saint-Michel island, served in most restaurants.

La Mere Poulard’s Omelet « soufflée »

Another culinary staple from Normandy, the Mere Poulard’s “omelette soufflee” is for some, the best omelet in the world. Made from slowly beaten egg yolks and whites cooked on an open fire in a rounded copper skillet, the omelet has a unique fluffy texture, which only a truly experienced hand can achieve. The Mere Poulard’s Auberge, the birth place of the world-renowned omelet, is still located in its original location, on the main street in the Mont Saint-Michel Village. You can stay overnight in one of its rusticly-decored rooms or just enjoy an omelet in the (often bustling) dining room.

Les Galettes du Mont Saint-Michel

Just like in Brittany, biscuits are butter-filled in Normandy. Les Galettes du Mont Saint-Michel is the name given to the array of scrumptious Normandy Butter Sables produced by the iconic Saint-Michel Biscuiterie. You can pay a visit to the original workshop in Contres or stop by any grocery store in the area to grab a collectable biscuit steel box to bring home.

The Calvados and Apple Flan

Personally, a trip to Normandy wouldn’t be complete without a slice of this one. At La Ferme St Michel, I had the most amazing Calvados and Apple Flan for dessert. It was tender, fruity and intensely fragrant – thanks to the Calvados Apple Brandy. I have been craving this dessert since then, and made it several times back home this winter. Known in French as “Far Normand”, you can also find slabs of it in most bakeries in the area (with or without Calvados in it). It makes for a perfect afternoon snack too! And if you’re into Calvados, make sure to take a drive to the Chateau du Breuil.

The post A Day at Mont Saint-Michel appeared first on Pardon Your French.

On a recent trip to Normandy, we ate at La Ferme St Michel, and I had the most amazing Calvados and Apple Flan for dessert. It was tender, fruity and intensely fragrant, thanks to the Calvados Apple Brandy.

So of course, as soon as I was back in in my kitchen in Canada two weeks later, I couldn’t resist making one (and it certainly won’t be the last one I will be making this fall/winter)!

Being from Brittany, I grew up eating the “Far Breton”, which is the same eggy-buttery flan, but filled with dried prunes soaked in Armagnac. This Apple Flan from Normandy, also known as “Far Normand” is filled with apples soaked in Calvados. (If you’re not sure what Calvados is, or how it’s made, read my previous post about my visit to a Calvados distillery in Normandy).

It is one of the most popular desserts from Normandy. It is widely served in restaurants (usually with a drizzle of salted caramel on top) or sold by the wedge in almost every local bakery.

Some people like it buttery, rich and dense. And some people like it light and creamy. I think this version is situated perfectly in the middle. It has a firm base, capable of holding a generous amount of apples and a creamy top, with a slight caramelization on the edges.

This dessert is very simple to make, and quick too! The batter only requires one bowl and is similar to making a sweet crêpe batter. You might be surprised how “liquidy” the batter is, but it is actually normal (don’t expect to get a cake-like batter). And just like crêpe batter, it must rest in your fridge for at least 1 or 2 hours before baking it. (even better, prepare the batter the day before, and let it rest overnight in the fridge).

Soaking the apples in calvados really makes the dish. Calvados, being an apple brandy, compliments perfectly the tartness of the fresh apples and adds so much character to the batter (but without too much sweetness.). If you do not have calvados, another type of brandy, or rhum, would work nicely too (though, I think calvados is really the best match for this dish).

For those who really do not want any alcohol in this dish, you can replace the tablespoon of calvados with one teaspoon of vanilla extract.

I hope you enjoy this Normandy classic. It’s custardy, fruity and not too sweet. It is perfect freshly out of the oven for a gourmet weekend breakfast, or served as a comforting dessert (with a drizzle of caramel). It is also a great snack, cut up in big wedges.

If you try this recipe, let me know!  Leave a comment or share a photo using #pardonyourfrench on Instagram. 

Bon Appétit!

Calvados and Apple Flan from Normandy

Print Recipe

Serves: 8 Prep Time: 15 Minutes Cooking Time: 40 Minutes 40 Minutes

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 4.6/5

( 7 voted )

Ingredients

1 cup (125g) all-purpose flour
1/3 cup + 1 tbsp (75g) sugar
1 pinch of salt
1 tsp baking powder
2 large eggs
2 cups (50c)l milk
2 tbsp (30ml) Calvados (or another type of Brandy, or rum), divided
4 baking apples (a mix of tart and sweet varieties)
1 tbsp (14g) butter (salted or unsalted)

Instructions

Preheat your oven to 350F.

In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder. Form a well in the middle, and dump in the eggs. Start mixing, using a whisk, pouring in slowly the milk at the same time to thin down the batter. Pour in the calvados and mix until just incorporated. The batter should reach a thick liquidy consistency. Rest the batter in your fridge for at least 1 or 2 hours.

Peel and cut the apples (in 8) and toss them in 1 tbsp of Calvados. Let the apples macerate for 5-10 minutes.

Butter a 9 inch regular or square pan. Spread half of the apples slices at the bottom. Cover with the batter, and spread the rest of the apples on top (the apples will sink a bit). 

Bake for 40 minutes, until the edges are lightly golden. 

Served warm, or at room temperature.

It can be kept in the fridges (well wrapped) for up to 3 days.

The post Calvados and Apple Flan from Normandy appeared first on Pardon Your French.

Fun fact, the name “teurgoule” means twisted mouth in Norman (the regional language from Normandy). It is a reference to the faces supposedly pulled by Normandy people tasting this dessert – not out of disgust, but astonishment, as cinnamon was once a very foreign taste.

Indeed, the teurgoule is a great testimony of Lower Normandy being a major halt on the Spice Road in the 18th century. Ships from the India’s imported spices and grains to the Honfleur industrial port, introducing rice and cinnamon to the Normandy people for the first time … With milk already being a beloved local ingredient, this slow-baked rice pudding recipe was invented to get locals cooking with the new foreign ingredients. The teurgoule got adopted quickly by the Normandy people, who baked it in bread ovens after the bread was done, to give it a slow baking process.

Rice, cinnamon, sugar and milk. That is all you need to create this intensely flavorful and creamy dish. Surely one of the reasons why it remains still today a favorite in Normandy households.

You will also need a deep, earthenware dish – of any shape of your choosing, as long as it is deep and sturdy.

Do not rush the baking process as it is crucial to create the signature features of this dish. The several hours of baking creates a velvety soft pudding and the thick brown caramelized crust over the teurgoule. The taste of cinnamon is somewhat subtle, but goes perfectly with the creaminess of this dish.

Locals will tell you are not supposed to eat the crust, but I myself can’t resist the sweet little taste of Dulce de Leche that it has. Some people will also add some butter on top of the crust at the end of baking, to give it a darker hue (and even richer taste!).

This slow-baked Rice pudding with Cinnamon is traditionally enjoyed with a slice of “Fallue”, the classic creamy brioche from Normandy. And just like the Fallue, the “fallue and teurgoule brotherhood” organizes each year a national cooking competition to elect the best teurgoule.

This recipe is the one of French Baker Phillipe Gouley, winner of the Golden Teurgoule four years in a row. He also won several Golden Fallue.

Slow-baked Rice Pudding with Cinnamon

Print Recipe

Serves: 6 Prep Time: 10 Minutes Cooking Time: 3 hours 30 minutes 3 hours 30 minutes

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 4.1/5

( 7 voted )

Ingredients

1 liter of milk (2%, or higher)
½ cup light brown sugar (100g)(or 90g for a less sweet dessert)
10 sticks of cinnamon (20g) or 1 teaspoon of cinnamon powder
1/3 cup arborio rice (65g)
A pinch of salt

Instructions

Preheat your oven to 300F.

In a medium sauce pan, bring the milk, sugar and cinnamon sticks (or powder) to a simmer. Take off the stove, and remove the cinnamon sticks.

Place the rice in a deep earthenware dish and pour the milk on top. Add a pinch of salt, stir gently and place in the oven.

Bake for 3 and a half horus, until a thick crust has formed on top.

Take out of the oven and let cool down to room temperature.

 

 

 

The post Slow-baked Rice Pudding with Cinnamon appeared first on Pardon Your French.

Brioche comes is so many variations in France, and this one is the most treasured ones of Normandy. And I just couldn’t share any other recipe than the one from French baker Philippe Gouley – awarded several gold medals for his “fallue” recipe, by the official “fallue and teurgoule brotherhood”.

Needless to say, this recipe is a winner.  

Like most brioche recipes, it can be completed with a stand mixer or by hand. It consists of a simple dough with flour, eggs, butter and one signature ingredient: crème fraiche.

Crème fraîche is a rich cultured cream that is an essential of French cooking. It is often used as a base for sauces, emulsions, soups and sometimes in baked goods. Outside of France, it often gets confused with – or translated as – sour cream. But it is actually not quite the same….

What’s the difference between sour cream and crème fraiche?

• Sour cream usually has around 20% fat content, and some gelatin or vegetable enzymes will often be added to it to stabilize it and make it thicker. As the name reveals, it tastes sour.
• Crème fraîche usually has at least 30% fat content. Hence, it is naturally rich and thick (thanks to natural bacteria) and does not require any thickeners. It tastes creamier and less sour.

While you can find crème fraiche in every single grocery store in France, it is rare commodity in North America. Liberte makes a good 40% fat content one (which can be found in some Canadian grocery stores), but other brands such as Riviera are unfortunately harder to find.

That being said, if you do not have crème fraiche on hand, plain sour cream can actually be a great substitute in this recipe. The result will just be slightly more sour – but I find it quite pleasing in this brioche.

Note: Substituting crème fraiche for sour cream works in this recipe, but this is certainly not always the case. It will often work for baked goods, such as this brioche, but won’t work for sauces or soups (sour cream has less fat and more protein, so will tend to curdle when brought to high temperatures).

Another option, if you are feeling ambitious, is to make your own crème fraîche with just buttermilk and cream.

The Brioche from Normandy is traditionally enjoyed for dessert with “Teurgoule”, the old-fashion baked rice pudding from Normandy. I also find it delicious for breakfast, with some butter, fruit jam, or honey. 

Brioche from Normandy

Print Recipe

Serves: 12 Prep Time: 3 hour 30 minutes Cooking Time: 25 minutes 25 minutes

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 5.0/5

( 1 voted )

Ingredients

2 cups bread flour (ideally French-Style T55 flour) (500g)
½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature (113g)
¼ cup + 1 tablespoon crème fraiche (or sour cream) (100g)
5 eggs
¼ cup white sugar (50g)
10g salt
18g fresh yeast

Instructions

Add in all the ingredients - except for 1 egg and the yeast - in your mixing bowl. Mix (with the paddle attachment or by hand) for 30 seconds. Add in the yeast and mix for 10 minutes. At the end, Knead the dough by hand – if it is too sticky, sprinkle a pinch of flour; if it is too thick, add in a little bit of cream. The dough should be soft and shouldn’t stick to your fingers.

Shape the dough in a big ball and wrap it with a clean cloth (in which you sprinkled a bit of flour in – so the dough doesn’t stick to it). Let the dough rise for 2 hours, ideally at 22C/71.6F.

After 2 hours, flatten the dough and fold it in half, length wise, to obtain a big oval log. Seal the dough with your fingers, and place it (seal down) on a greased baking tray. Cover with a cloth, and let rise again for 1hour and 20 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 375F. Break the remaining egg, whisk it with a pinch of salt and brush it all over the dough. With scissors, make small cuts all around the top half of the dough, to create a “hat”.

Bake for 25 minutes, until the brioche is golden.

Enjoy it warm or at room temperature.

Notes...

This brioche stays fresh for up to 2 days, well wrapped in a cloth.

The post Brioche from Normandy appeared first on Pardon Your French.