Upon arrival, we were greeted by the hosts Linda and Jean-Marie, a young couple who had bought the land in 2016. They spent the past 7 years building their dairy farm from the ground up, breeding 60 cows and developing their line of products – including milk, yogurts, fromage blanc, crème fraiche, skyr, butter and desserts (rice pudding, crème au chocolat, etc.). Linda and Jean-Marie built quite a reputation for themselves and supply today some of the biggest chefs with their high-quality organic butter.

They had set up an utterly charming breakfast buffet right near a shed that housed some adorable calves. The event attracted about 50 people, and we all enjoyed a glorious breakfast outside on large tables. On the menu: dairy products from the farm including fresh milk, butter and yogurts, fresh bread and brioches from neighboring farm Roche Bleue, local strawberries, local honey, homemade jams and locally grown herbal teas. What a feast we had!

After breakfast, Linda took us on a tour of the farm. We walked through the cow fields, the main shed, the milking stations and the labs where the fresh milk is turned into butter and other dairy goodness. After the tour, we spent some time with Jullian Pekle, a local baker who came for the occasion to bake fresh breads and pizzas in the communal wood-fired oven. My husband Marc is an avid pizza maker, so the two of them spent some time sharing tips on flours, temperatures and other pizza tricks.

If you are visiting Paris, you can find Kerbastard’s products at Maison Plisson, Saisons and more! You can view all their retailers here. 

Have you ever visited a local farm? How was your experience? Leave a comment below.

The post Breakfast at Kerbastard Farm appeared first on Pardon Your French.

This market is set in the town’s main square, which is wedged between two beaches. It is a picture-perfect, medium-sized Brittany market that offers a wonderful place for local producers to sell their goods each week. 

As a kid I loved this market, the lively atmosphere, the smells, the colors, the tastes, the vendors’ laughter and chit-chatting with locals. As an adult, I probably love it even more, along with the ritual that goes with it. The idea that no matter how hectic the week is and whatever the weather, our Sunday trip to the market is set to happen.

We go and see the same familiar faces every week, buy our produces from the same long-standing vendors and finish our trip with the same “À la semaine prochaine!” (See you next week!). There is so much happiness and comfort found in this weekly ritual, that I never fail to share photos of it every Sunday on my Instagram.

But of course, most of the beauty of a market is found in its food. At this time of the year, you can find an array of lingering winter produce mixed with colorful spring bounties. It truly is a special time of the year, as locals get excited for warmer days and more colors on market stalls. We all love to see the first strawberries, the first asparagus of the year…

To share this experience with you, I thought I would give you today a tour of the best produces you can find at my farmers’ market this season. For more inspiration, I am pairing some produce with a recipe you can prepare in your own kitchen.

Asparagus are the first sights of Spring at the market! End of March is when asparagus harvests start in Brittany and they are enjoyed until May. Because their season is fleeting, they usually sell fast at the market as people want to make the most of them before they’re gone. Asparagus are turned into soups, used in quiches, and simply enjoyed blanched with a simple vinaigrette or a gribiche sauce.

Radishes are Spring favorites in France. In Brittany, where they are plentiful, we love to buy them in big bunches as soon as they hit market stalls in April. We often enjoy them as a starter – simply raw, with butter, a pinch of salt flakes and bread. And with the remaining leaves, I love to make this soup. 

Leek season runs from September to May, in Brittany. That said, Spring leeks are smaller and more tender, which makes them perfect to be enjoyed as a “Poireaux Vinaigrette”: simply poached leeks served as a starter with a vinaigrette.

Cauliflower is a classic Breton vegetable. The local producers are known to harvest incredible cauliflower, which are a mainstay of markets from September til May. Brittany’s sandy soil and mild, humid Winters makes it perfect to grow this cruciferous vegetable – and the region grows and harvests about 80% of the total cauliflower available in France. 

Naturally, the Brittany cooking repertoire features a myriad of cauliflower recipes. Among the most favorite ones are the Cauliflower Gratin and this Creamy Roasted Cauliflower Soup. Although in the Spring, my favorite way to prepare cauliflower is perhaps this one.

Along with cauliflower, artichokes are another staple produce from Brittany in the Spring. Unlike Mediterranean varieties which are smaller, the “Camus” variety grown in Brittany is big, green, round and feels heavy when lifted. Its most popular way to be enjoyed is boiled with vinaigrette – one of my favorite Spring meals, hands down. 

New potatoes are incredibly popular in Brittany in the Spring. These types of small potatoes (harvested early) are loved for their nutty flavor and waxy texture, which holds very well once cooked. The season starts in April and lasts all throughout the end of the Summer, until potatoes get bigger. In the Spring, we love to prepare them simply roasted to accompany a roast, or in a cold salad.

Last week at the market, I was so happy to spot the pretty “Gariguettes”: the first strawberries of the season! These beloved strawberries are known as a “variété précoce” – meaning they are an early variety. The first to be harvested in the Spring! They’re known for their deep red hue and melty, sweet flesh. They are just as delicious enjoyed fresh with Chantilly, or in baked goods, like in a Strawberry Flaugnarde. That said, my personal favorite way to enjoy strawberries is in a French Strawberry tart – a timeless, always elegant and delicious dessert.

To sum up, what are the local produces to look for when visiting a Brittany market in the Spring?

• Smaller leeks
• New potatoes
• Asparagus
• Radishes
• Cauliflowers
• Artichokes
• Strawberries

Have a you ever visited a market in France? Or, what is your favorite French market? Let me know in the comments!

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The Cité Under Lockdown

Just like when I visited Toulouse during the same week, France had just lifted a national lockdown amid the covid-19 pandemic and kept some important restrictions in place: all restaurants and bars were shutdown, as were museums, cinemas and theatres. Only shops, grocery stores and religious edifices were allowed to be open. Wearing masks was mandatory across the whole city, and social distancing was practiced as much as possible. Lastly, a national curfew was in place between the hours of 8pm-6am. 

While the city center of Toulouse was quite busy amid the pandemic, the Cité de Carcassone was almost totally empty. Because it relies heavily on tourism, it is clear the town suffered from the situation probably more than many other cities. I had visited the cité ten years ago in August and it was incredibly busy – so much so, that it sometimes made it hard to enjoy the visit. Every restaurant, store, nook and cranny was bustling. So you can imagine how wandering through the empty zigzaging cobbled streets of the cité felt completely surreal this time. I felt privileged to enjoy this magical site in such a quiet atmosphere and take the time to truly appreciate the charm of this medieval town. It was of course bittersweet and sad (for businesses & restaurants) to find the site so empty, but it truly made for an unforgettable moment.

A few things to know about La Cité de Carcassonne 

Carcassonne is located in the south of France about 80 kilometres (40min train-ride) from Toulouse, and a 5-5:30hr train ride from Paris. The city of Carcassonne is divided in two distincts part: the “Ville Basse” (newer part) where most locals live and work, and the medieval fortified upper citadel that is the main touristic site – attracting over 4 million visitors every year.

La Cité de Carcassonne is a medieval fortress dating back to the Gallo-Roman period. It is composed of two outer walls – that you can contour from the outside on foot – with parapets, spiky towers and barbicans. The inner Cité is an enticing zig zag of cobbled streets, tiny museums, shops, cafes, restaurants, a beautiful Basilique Saint-Nazaire and several charming squares and terraces. Entrance inside the citadel is free and open year-round. 

While I can’t offer you any restaurant or shop recommendations (hopefully I’ll be able to do that another time!), here are a few photos of this pandemic-version of Carcassonne – almost empty, almost unreal. Enjoy!

Note: This article is simply to share my personal experience of visiting  Carcassonne during the Covid-19 pandemic. Of course, this article isn’t to promote un-cautious/un-essential travelling or tourism at this time. Should you have to travel, I encourage you to remain as safe and mindful as possible.

Did you enjoy this article?

Please let me know by leaving a comment below! And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Carcassonne, please feel free to share them.

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How did these restrictions and the pandemic translate in the city? 

As we were just one week away from December 25th, Toulouse locals still flocked daily to stores to complete their Christmas shopping, which resulted in a pretty crowded city center during my whole stay. After a one-month lockdown, people were eager to finally get out, shop their heart out, order take-out food and walk around their favorite city to admire Christmas lights and decorations – before having to rush home for the curfew. 

However, the outskirts of the city center were very quiet, and some streets mostly empty. The only flurry came early in the morning from people lining up to go inside bakeries, or lining up to get a covid test in a pharmacy or one of the testing stations scattered around the city, under big white tents. A sense of normalcy was definitely not here, and the feeling of sometimes wandering into a ghost-town was very much present.  

No dining out, no drinks, no museums, no shows. 

It wasn’t of course the best setting to visit Toulouse. Yet, surprisingly, these unique circumstances led me to (re)visit Toulouse with a fresh outlook. I got to see Toulouse without any frills and felt privileged to enjoy a quiet city in its bare state. I was able to focus on the city’s architecture, learn its history, and grasp its original essence, with no distractions. While I initially feared the lack of activities, it turned out to be quite liberating. I embraced taking time to admire Toulouse’s Roman buildings. I truly felt the intimate vibes in the sinuous cobbled streets of the medieval center. I enjoyed taking endless walks along the empty banks of the Garonne River. 

A different way of tourism 

This was really a different way to visit a city – masked up, slowed down, and only seeing things from the exterior. But in the end, this pandemic-version of Toulouse made my trip all the more memorable, while immensely pleasant at the same time. I enjoyed the city in a way I probably never would have in other circumstances. 

A few things to know about Toulouse 

Toulouse is France’s 4th largest city (after Paris, Lyon and Marseilles) and is a 4:30hr train ride from Paris. With a major University campus network, the city houses a very large student population which makes it a very lively city, known for its busy nightlife. Yet several parts of the city are very family-friendly. With an important immigrant population, the city enjoys both Spanish and Arabic influences present in its cuisine, shops and general vibe. While a large city, Toulouse has a human-sized center that can be visited by foot, with all major sites within walking distance. 

For the French, Toulouse is known for its relaxed lifestyle, proud locals, its aerospace industry, its rugby fans, having drinks on the banks of the Garonne River, eating Cassoulet and for being “La Ville Rose”. 

Why is Toulouse called “La Ville Rose” (the pink city)? 

Distinctive pink tiles and clay bricks were used to construct many buildings around the city, giving Toulouse a unique charm. Depending on their baking time, the bricks (known as “briques foraines”) vary from light pink, to coral, to deep orange. The colors vary throughout the day too – vibrant at sunset, pale pink in the sun and deeper under the rain. 

Top things to see in Toulouse: 

• Place du Capitole – The Cap’ (as the locals say) is the heart of Toulouse. This large esplanade hosts the impressive Capitole building, home to the town hall and the Théâtre du Capitole. 
• Basilique Saint-Sernin – a World Unesco Site, this XI century basilica is one of the largest Roman buildings in the Occident. 
• Couvent des Jacobins – A beautiful Southern Gothic Art church and convent, adorned by a unique vault reminding of a palm tree.
• Hôtel d’Assézat – A 16TH century French Renaissance Hotel particulier, now home to an Art Galery (the Georges Bemberg’s Foundation). 
• Musée de Augustins – Toulouse’s Fine Art museum.
• Musée Saint-Raymond – Toulouse’ archeological & Antiquities museum. 
• Cathédrale Saint-Étienne 
• Eglise Notre Dame de la Dalbade 
• Canal du Midi 
• Canal de Brienne
• Pont Neuf 
• Quai de la Daurade 
• Place Saint Pierre
• Le Jardin des Plantes 
• Le Jardin Japonais 
• Marché Victor Hugo 
• Marché des Carmes 

What specialties to eat in Toulouse: 

• Cassoulet 
• Aligot 
• Toulouse sausage 
• Foie gras 
• Duck confit 
• Gâteau à la broche
• Fenetra 
• Apple Croustade
• Violet candies

And here are a few photos from my stay in Toulouse during the pandemic… enjoy! 

Last photos are of an Aligot (cheesy mashed potatoes) and Fenetra pastry (tart filled with apicot jam, candied lemon peel and almond meringue) – two local specialties. 

Did you enjoy this article? 

Please let me know by leaving a comment below to let me know if you enjoyed it. And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Toulouse, please feel free to share them. 

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Do : La Plage des Catalans

La Plage des Catalans is a well-known site in Marseilles where locals congregate as soon as the sun rises. It is only a short walk from the center (the Old Port) to reach the beach; which will make you envious about the quality of life the locals enjoy (living in a vibrant city, while always a few minutes away from a swim in the Mediterranean). If you go during the day, you might have a hard time finding a spot for your beach towel, but if you arrive early enough in the morning like we did, you’ll be able to enjoy the serenity of the site.

Do: La Corniche

From La Plage des Catalans, we strolled south along the iconic Marseille’s “Corniche”, a scenic sea-side roadway stretching along the Mediterranean and offering great views of the Iles du Friouls. Along the way, we meandered along villas and hotels before reaching the picturesque Vallon des Auffes. 

Do : Le Vallon des Auffes

Nestled between two walls of pastel houses, the Vallon des Auffes is a semi-rugged, semi-charming fisherman’s haven in a creek, inhabited by fisher’s cabins and boats – some of them still in use. If one word were to define it, I’d choose: picturesque. The Vallon stricks with its colorfulness and peaceful atmosphere (or at least, when we visited late morning) and seems such a far way from the hustle and bustle of the big city. The Vallon is also well-known for hosting dining gems, including restaurant Chez Fonfon, that’s said to offer the best Bouillabaise in Marseilles. Sadly we didn’t get a chance to taste it (but that’s for another time I am sure). Instead, we simply turned out heads right, and entered the neighboring building of Chez Jeannot …

Eat : Chez Jeannot

Snuggled in the middle of the postcard like scenery that is The Vallon des Auffes, Chez Jeannot is an establishment in Marseilles, known for making the absolute best pizza. Naturally, we had to try it for ourselves. We sat on the terrace outside, and ordered a plate of sliced tomatoes topped with a creamy burrata and a simple tomato pizza with black olives and anchovies . Now, if you are wondering… Yes, the pizza was absolutely delicious, but it was the burrata plate that turned this lunch into one of the best food experiences of our lives. It was the most lavish, creamiest, luscious burrata we had ever enjoyed. I am still to this day beating myself up for not asking our server where they sourced it. 

Eat : Bistro L’Horloge

After this once-in-a-lifetime meal, we made our way back to the Old Port of Marseille (35-40 minutes walk). To finish off our last day in Marseille with a kick, we booked a table at L’Horloge, lured by the dazzling reviews we found of this bistro online, and also because it is ideally located on the buzzing Cours Honore D’Estienne D’Orves, also knows as “Place aux Huiles”. We started our meal on the busy patio, with a glass of rose and a plate of panisses (chickpea flour fries, the typical pre-dinner snack in Marseille), and then devoured a plate of grilled octopus and another of gnocchi – both equaly delicious.  The cuisine was simple but generous, in a lively atmosphere. A perfect ending to our trip.

And that’s the wrap on my 3-day guide to Marseille, which I hope enticed your curiosity of visiting the city. Closing this guide with a short and sweet conclusion on why Marseille is a gem that you should absolutely experience will be difficult, but I’ll try.

There’s a lot being said about Marseille (especially in France) – some of it good, some of it bad (pretty bad). But I think this is part of the magic about Marseille.

I have never visited a city so culturally diverse and vibrant, yet so French. So beautiful and pleasing to the eye, yet so unharmonious. So welcoming and warm, yet so noisy and complex.

I had spent most of my life imagining Marseille with some anxiety. But today, I have the most positive outlook on Marseille and find its beauty in its humanity and respect. The city’s myriads of faces, identities, cultures and religions appear to have a striking mutual respect for one another (or at least the foundations for it, which is already more than most other French cities.)

Marseille is a city of contrasts and contradictions, nurtured by a fierce pride. Where the good and the bad co-exist, and need each other to make Marseille what it is today. A real place, with real people.

You might also like: 

• Marseille Guide – Part 1 
• Marseille Guide – Part 2 
• A Day in Lille, Capital of French Flanders
• A Day at Mont Saint Michel 

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Far from the classic-French vibe of Paris, Lille offered the promise of a singular French city with a strong Flemish influence. The quirky architecture, the kind people, the best beer and amazing food… you won’t find any other place like it in France, they say. And that was more than enough to entice me.

It is not well known that Lille is accessible from Paris by a short 1 train-ride (on that topic, many people work in Paris and actually live in Lille). So I decided to book a 1-day return ticket (train from Paris Gare du Nord at 8:00AM and return from Lille Flanders at 5:00PM – you can get your tickets on SNCF, the national train operator). As I arrived in the Lille Flanders train station at 9:00AM, located right the heart of the city, I was all set for spending a great day in Lille. I spent the whole day, map in hand, travelling by foot across the city and was able to hit all the locations I wanted to. Turns out, Lille is perfect for a 1-day visit and the entire city is easily navigated by foot.

Here is the recount of this great day, with all the stops I took (with walking distance in-between them), including the food I ate. I hope you enjoy it, and if you know Lille and/or have more recommendations to share, please write a comment – I’d love to hear them!

Rue Faidherbe and Place du General Charles de Gaule

Right out of the Lille Flanders train station, I walked on Rue Faidherbe– the main shopping avenue leading out of the station – towards the Place du General Charles de Gaule, known to be Lille’s main plaza, in the heart of the city (5 min. walk).  The Place is a great first stop when discovering Lille for the first time, as it is surrounded by the city’s signature architectural style: yellow and orange edifices, with several of them classified as “historical buildings”, including the Theatre and the Old Stock Exchange. The Place is today the site of all of Lille’s main festivals and events. As I was there during an early December morning, a festive Ferris Wheel was there and stalls for the Christmas market were being installed. I took some time to glance through bakery windows and spotted a few Tartes Au Sucre, a speciality of the city and Manelles, the traditional St Nicholas man-shaped brioche buns.

Rue Esquermoise

In search of a breakfast spot, I then walked North on Rue Esquermoise, a street leading to Lille’s Old Center and filled with bakeries and little shops (5 min walk). Lured by all the delicious-looking pastries in the windows, I stopped at the Valerie & Raphael Brier’s Bakery, which has a “Salon de thé” (tea room). I ordered a coffee and a “Brioche au Sucre”, another specialty of the city, which was a billowy brioche bun nestled with sugar chunks – absolutely delicious. The tea room was quaint yet very pleasant, and I loved sitting at my table and enjoying my brioche while looking at the staff working their way through the bakery, grabbing freshly-baked goods from the back and placing them on the stalls.

Quai Wault

After breakfast, I wandered a bit through the Old Town and then walked in a North-West direction towards the Quai Wault (10-15 min. walk). The Quai Wault is one of the two old ports of the city and displays colorful brick-and-blue facades (well worth taking a look at), including the Couvent des Minimes – a former convent build in the typical Flemish style, now reconverted into a luxury hotel.

Wazemmes Market

From Quai Wault, I made my way South towards the Wazemmes Market (20 min walk). This covered market is one of the biggest in France, featuring stalls of food, flowers and other typical market bounties. The Market is a bit on the outskirts of the city’s center, and not located in the most attractive area, but it is definitely still well worth a visit.

Notre-Dame de La Treille

From the market, I walked back North towards the iconic Basilica Notre-Dame de La Treille, Lille’s Cathedral (20 min walk). The architectural style of the basilica is pretty strict and modern (Gothic Revival) and sure contrasts with the rest of the city. The building is considered a national monument and is indeed massive, in style and size. It is well worth taking the time to visit the insides and stare at the stained glass – modern and very unique. Once you’ve visited the cathedral, make sure you also walked around and behind the building. I was pleasantly surprised to find rows of cute pink, white and yellow facades – offering even more contrasts with the religious edifice.

Place aux Oignons

After Notre-Dame de La Treille, I was just a few steps away from the Place aux Oignons (2 min. walk). This is one of the must-sees in Lille. It is a quaint little place surround by pretty bucolic houses (far more sobre in style than the later, typical Flemish style) and tight cobbled streets. You can spend minutes or hours wandering in and around the place and stop in all the little shops. As it was lunch time, I entered an “Estaminet” (what you call bistros that serve typical food and drinks in the North of France), Les Vieux d’La Vieille, located right on the Place aux Oignons. The restaurant’s décor, location, food and service were all great (highly recommended!). I had a delicious “Soupe aux Chicons” for starter (an endive and cream soup) and a scrumptious “Gratin Picard” as a main (a simple crepe filled with ham and endive, and topped with a hefty piece of Maroilles).

Rue de La Monnaie, Place du Lyon d’Or, Rue Saint Jacques and Parc Henri-Matisse

With a full and happy stomach, I kept wandering around the Place des Onions and on the busy Rue de La Monnaie, one of the oldest and most picturesque streets of the city. There, I couldn’t help but peek into the windows of “Aux Merveilleux de Fred” (2 min walk) a renowned pastry shop. In the back, I watched (for several minutes) the pastry chefs making the city’s famous “Gauffres Lilloises” (sugar-and-butter-filled thin waffles, cousins of the Stroopwaffles) and “Merveilleux”, a pastry made of two meringues stuck together with chocolate whipped cream and rolled in chocolate shavings. I then stepped in and bought 2 dozen waffles to bring home (they are sold wrapped in shiny, sturdy paper and can keep for days – so they were suited to travelling a day in my suitcase to Canada). I then continued walking towards the pretty Place du Lyon d’Or (3 min walk) and onto Rue Saint Jacques to reach the quieter and modern Parc Henri-Matisse (10 min walk.)

Maison Méert

As my time in Lille was nearing its end, I couldn’t NOT make a stop at the iconic Maison Méert, one of the oldest pastry shops in the world (10 min walk). Apart from having the most stunning facade and making outstanding chocolates, spiced breads and candies, the pastry house is mostly renowned for making the best thin stuffed waffles in the city. Of course, I had one, and it was in fact everything I wished for… creamy, sugary, soft and fragrant. ( I wished I bought more to take home, but I already had a bag full of waffles from Aux Merveilleux de Fred, which I tasted once home and ended up being absolutely delicious too – so you should visit both places!)

La Vieille Bourse (Old Stock Exchange)  

Lastly, before heading back to the Lille Flanders Train Station, I headed back to the Place du General Charles de Gaule to visit the Old Stock Exchange (known as the “Vieille Bourse”), another landmark of the city (5 min walk). In the form of a quandrangle, the building encloses an inner courtyard that is now inhabited during the day with old antique stalls, old book sellers, flower stalls and chess players. The kind of place where you could linger for hours and just soak in the moment. Sadly, I had to get back to realty and make my way to the Lilles Flandres Train Station (7 min walk), and hopped on my train back to Paris…

Visiting Lille – whether you’re coming from Paris by train for a day or are just in the area – is such an (un)expected treat. It’s a grandiose looking, yet human-sizes city, well suited for spending just a day or two. It’s a city for wandering in the old cobbled streets and taking in the unique Flemish vibe, that surely contrasts with the rest of France. The ochre-brick-walled builidings, reminiscent of the factory-run economy of the area, and the heavily ornamented Flemish-styled yellow edifices offer bursts of colours against the moody grey sky. But thankfully, the food, earthy (for the savory) and sugar-focused (for the sweet) is well-suited for this colder-weather region: comforting, generous and always scrumptious. Last but not least, people from the Hauts-de-France are well known to wear their heart on their sleeve, and just one day of being there was enough to prove to me, it is in fact so very true.

Roundup of places and food to eat while in Lille:

Where to go & what to see: Rue Faidherbe; Place du General Charles de Gaule; Old Stock Exchange; Rue de La Monnaie; Place du Lyon d’Or; Parc Henri-Matisse; Rue Esquermoise ; Place aux Oignons ; Basilica Notre-Dame de La Treille ; Wazemmes Market ; Couvent des Minimes ; Quai Wault

Where to eat: Valerie & Raphael Brier’s Bakery; Les Vieux d’La Vieille; Aux Merveilleux de Fred ; Maison Méert ; Wazemmes Market

What specialities to eat: Tartes Au Sucre; Merveilleux; Sugar-filled Waffles; Ficelle Picarde; Carbonnade Flamande ; Maroille Cheese; Soupe au Chicon ; Waterzooi ; Beer Welsh.

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Read along for the delicious details…

Do: The Old Port, in the morning.

“Le Vieux Port” is Marseille’s birthplace (where the Greek settlers landed in the year 600) and is undoubtedty the city’s most famous hang-out spot for locals and tourists alike. The southern and northern quays host a spread of lively bars and cafes (some tourist-traps, some surprisingly not). The beautiful Baroque-style City Hall on the northern quay is a must-see (especially if you are a fan of Netflix’s TV Series Marseille).

But I think The Old Port’s greatest appeal is squeezed in its center, and in the early morning, when fishermen come back from their night of fishing and spread their fresh catches on market stalls for locals and chefs to buy. Most of The Old Port’s fisherman do what we call in French  « la petite pêche». This means they only go to sea for a few hours, on small boats and fish on a smaller scale. Their artisanal practice is a far stretch from the behemoth of fishing industries generated just a few miles away at Marseille’s commercial port – the biggest French port. Still, these artisanal fishermen are icons in the city, and attract plenty of fish lovers every single morning. This ritual at the Old Port is a 100% Marseille experience, and a true feast for the eyes (although not so much for your nose) – something you definitely do not want to miss.

Do: Notre Dame de La Garde

Notre Dame de La Garde is Marseille’s iconic Catholic Basilica and its most visited site. You’ll feel like a tourist among tourists, but you just can’t visit Marseille without making your way up to Notre Dame de La Garde. Perched at the top of the city’s highest natural point (at 149m/489ft), the edifice is regarded as the protectoress of the city, hence its endearing nickname Bonne Mere (“good mother”) given by the locals. The contrasted-stone architecture is beautiful and I really appreciated the mosaic works inside, as well.

If you plan on climbing to the top of the Basilica’s hill by foot, from the city’s center, be prepared for a work-out! But I guarantee you, you will feel it’s worth every drip of sweat once you catch a glimpse of the breath-taking city panorama from atop. And don’t forget to look South too, for a glimpse of the Velodrome Stadium and the  Castellane, St -Giniez, St-Marguerite and Roucas Blanc districts.

Do : Cours Julien

The Cours Julien is a fun bohemian quarter, famous for its colorful and abundant street art. It has a cool edgy side to it, and you’ll want to get lost in its streets with your head up to admire all the graffiti-painted walls. You’ll find lots of quirky independent stores, tattoo parlors, bookstores, ethnic restaurants, one of Marseille’s only craft breweries and lively markets on the main square. The Cours Julien has a very “real” vibe. In my opinion, it is not the pretties district in Marseilles (kind of rough on the edges, to be honest),  but I can definitely see why for students and young crowds, it is Marseilles’ trendiest neighborhood.

Eat: La Cantine de Nour

Three steps away from the striking Palais Longtchamps, this relaxed Egyptian cantine had to be one of our favourite food finds during our trip! Nested on the ground floor of an Egyptian Cultural Center, La Cantine de Nour offers an authentic Egyptian menu from a bustling open kitchen. The décor features plump cushions, colorful rugs and mosaic-tiled floors. The atmosphere is welcoming and relaxed and the food is simply amazing (and a great value). We shared plates of Egyptian mezzes and a perfectly grilled fish, served with scrumptious kesra (Egyptian sesame flat bread) and all-you-can-drink tea.

To me, La Cantine de Nour is such a great example of Marseille’s abundance of outstanding North African food and talented cooks. Next time in I’m Marseilles, I am definitely going back to this gem!

Do: La Friche de la Belle de Mai

“La Friche” (literaly “The Wasteland” in French) is a former tobacco factory near the St Charles train station, in the Belle de Mai district (famous for being home of the Plus Belle La Vie studios, France’s biggest TV soap opera). The tobacco factory emptied decades ago and the youth slowly invaded the place using it as a skate park, basketball playground and graffiti wonderland. The idea made its way to the Town of Marseille’s officials… who decided to invest money into the project in the 90s. They secured, structured, glamourized the area and turned it into a cultural complex with art studios, a legit skate park, family and community gardens, a café, a restaurant and even a nursery. Walking into La Friche is unsettling, puzzling, yet exciting all at once. A kind of Los Angeles-hip-meets-Detroit-grunge-meets-Marseilles-projects.

Though, exploring the polished art gallery, the hipster cafe and family-filled skate park, I couldn’t help but wonder about the authenticity of the place… Was it a genuine plan to offer a place for artistic expression and playground to the city kids? Or rather a sleek communication strategy from the Town of Marseille, always suffering from a smeared image? Still, the Friche, I think, serves its civic purpose, and no matter what opinion you’ll make of it, it surely is a place like no other in France, and is worth a visit.

Eat : Le Bistro des Dames

From Lunch through Dinner time, la Place aux Huiles is a much-frequented esplanade just a few metres away from the Old Port. As we were searching for a dinner spot in the midst of all the buzzling patios, we opted for Le Bistro des Dames. And maybe because it’s set on one of Marseille’s busiest night-life spots, but we expected the food to be good, yet nothing extraordinary… Oh how we were wrong! The food was outstanding! We started with a board of local cheeses and a plate of razor clams, garnished with parsley butter. For the mains, we enjoyed some scrumptious homemade vegetable pasta (I know vegetable pasta doesn’t sound like much, but these were insane), along with the best Sole Meunière I have ever had in my life (huge props to the chef on this one!). For dessert, a deconstructed rhubard pie made for a perfect ending to this perfect dinner.

Marseille Guide – Part 3, coming soon…

The post Marseille Guide – Part 2 appeared first on Pardon Your French.

I fell hard for Marseille the first time I visited the city two years ago. And I have been bizarrely obsessed with it since then. Which, being a Brittany girl, was a bit against all odds – given how our two regions’ cultures, mentalities and lifestyles are so opposite (both on the French map and abstractly too). But somehow, for the past two years, there isn’t a day I haven’t been longing in despair for Marseille.

Finally, last Fall, I returned to Marseille. But this time with my husband and with the mission of making him fall in love with the city too. September was an ideal time of year to visit, as we enjoyed warm temperatures (but not hot) and avoided the peak of tourist season (June, July, August). And the best part was my husband ended up falling in love with Marseille too. Although frankly, I was a little scared he was going to hate it at first – because some people do hate Marseille, too.

The second-largest city in France has been long unloved and unwanted and seen at the country’s black sheep. It’s known to be loud, proud, rough on the edges, with a serious issue of drug-war related violence. And yes, there are neighborhoods you’d want to avoid (understand the crime-ridden northern suburbs “quartiers nords”), some political struggles and some architectural blots around the city.

But while all these are true, Marseille sure knows how to show her bright side.

Sitting on the edge of the blue Mediterranean, the city is a fierce ambassador of Provence and at the crossroads of European, African and Middle-Eastern immigration. This gives you a city with a fascinating cultural heritage, oscillating between the typical Southern French, sun-bathed, Pastis-sipping slow life and the hussle-and-bussle of one of Europe’s biggest melting pots.

Its food is just the same. A tantalizing mix of earthy Provencal stews, seafood feasts, Moroccan grillades, Algerian pastries, Egyptian mezzes and Italian-inspired antipastos. All coming together in a local cuisine like no other.

Marseille is a city that will make your head spin, your stomach laugh, and bedazzle your eyes with a side of France you weren’t expecting.

I am overly excited to share with you my recommendations on what to do and of course what to eat in Marseille – enough to fill at least 3 days. And because I had a lot of photos and places to share, I divided this Marseille Guide in 3 parts, with each part achievable in a day. These recommendations are hardly comprehensive, but some of the best places we wandered in and ate at, while staying in Marseille. All the recommendations are also summarized at the end of the article.

And I’d love if you added your recommendations too if you have any (leave a comment!). Because 3 days is clearly not enough to explore all Marseille has to offer. 

I already long for the day I will be back …

Do : Le Panier

Getting lost in the history-woven quarter, Le Panier (known as Marseille’s birthplace) is the perfect introduction to Marseille. Once a first stop for immigrants arriving in Marseille, the quarter is now inhabited by a joyous mix of Corsican, North African and French families. A quaint district offers a picture-perfect image of a Provencal village from yesteryear, with narrow hilly streets packed with artsy boutiques, café patios and pastel facades adorned by rows of drying clothes.

But behind every facade, expect to see some reality too.

Because truth is, Le Panier of today is a tad gritty, packed with noisy renovation work at every street corner, not-so-attractive school playgrounds, a tad unclean, with men often whistling at women passing by from their baby-blue sheltered windows. Yet, the graffiti on every wall – half-art, half-visual pollution – seemed to me to be the perfect image of these two opposite worlds co-existing in harmony. 

A place where one’s societal views might have to be reconsidered, to embrace a little more chaos. Although we are still speaking of France here … yet, this is a place like no other.

Do : Musée de la Vieille Charité

In the heart of Le Panier, the Musée de la Vieille Charité is a former hospice turned museum. The impressive U-shaped pink and white stoned edifice (designed by renowned Marseille-Architect Pierre Puget) is just enough to make it a must-stop during your visit of the city. But the museum also hosts unique pieces of Mediterranean archaeology, along with art from Africa, Oceania and the Americas, as well as some great temporary exhibitions (like a nice one on Jack London that we saw). 

Eat: Le Clan Des Cigales

Right outside the doors of La Vieille Charité, stop for lunch at Le Clan Des Cigales, on Rue du Petit Puits. I had gone to this little restaurant two years ago, and made sure to come back last Fall with my husband. Everything is house-made with fresh, local products. On the sun-bathed patio, we enjoyed a delicious farm-to-table meal of star-anise and fennel pork sausage, mashed olive oil potatoes and salad.

A typical Provencal experience, that isn’t a tourist trap. 

Eat :  Maison Geney

Also in Le Panier, Maison Geney is a modern and cozy little coffee shop that offers savoury and sweet breakfast, brunch and lunch options – all made-on site. Everything is fresh, delicious and so creative (both in looks and with the choice of ingredients). On the sweet side, you’ll find decadent baked-goods like giant chocolate fondants, fig & raspberries quatre-quarts, banana clafoutis and pistachio financiers. On the savoury side, fresh focaccia sandwiches, loaded veggie wraps and overflowing pizzas, sold by the slice.

Eat : Vanille Noir

There are plenty of ice-cream shops all around Marseille, but this one offers a black vanilla ice-cream that will knock your socks off. The color comes from the two kinds of vanilla pods used in its creation (a vanilla from Tahiti and a vanilla from Madagascar). The rest of the recipe is kept secret, but I suspect there is some activated charcoal as well. The ice-cream is amazing! Intensely vanilla-flavoured, with a slight bittersweet taste that gets rounded off by the velvety texture of the scoop. Vanille Noir also offers plenty of other delicious flavours, all 100% organic.

Eat : Les Navettes des Accoules

Navettes are traditional orange-flavoured biscuits from Marseilles (shaped like “navettes”, Marseille’s old fishing boats). You’ll find many bakeries in Marseilles where they are offered, but Les Navettes des Accoules is said to offer the most authentic ones. They’re crunchy outside, soft inside, with delicate orange notes – and most importantly not tooth-breaking (which you’ll find a lot of the other ones are). Make sure you also try their Anise-flavoured Canistrelli.

Do : Cathédral de La Major

Marseille’s Cathedral is an enormously scaled Byzantine-Roman style edifice that dominates the whole landscape. It truly impresses with its size, but also because it contrasts strikingly with its modern neighbourhood La Joliette, located at the start of the autonomous port. If in the mood for a shopping trip, walk north to the funky shopping mall Les Docks, built in a re-purposed building.

Do : The MUCEM and The Fort St Jean

The MUCEM (Museum of Mediterranean and European Civilizations) is a must, for any tourist or local in Marseille. Opened in 2013 as part of Marseille being the designated European Capital of Culture, the museum has greatly contributed ever since to the city’s new-found attractiveness and wave of optimism. Anchored at the beginning of the docks, at the entrance of the old port, The MUCEM is a breath-taking 15,000 m2 cube of latticework shell made of fiber-reinforced concrete, meant to remind visitors of fishermen’s nets. Allow 2 to 3 hours to visit its permanent and temporary exhibitions.

Once finished, make sure to exit through the rooftop patio and hop on the elevated pedestrian bridge to the pink-stoned Fort St Jean. Fragrant herb gardens, olive trees, sinuous sentry walks and areas to lounge in the sun… Fort St Jean offers an amazingly serene haven, with superb views on the urban hub. 

Eat: Sard’in

Sard’in has it all right. Ideally located on rue Coutellerie (a street away from the Old Port), this concept restaurant is one of the world’s first sardine bars – a genius idea, and insanely delicious! The chef works with local canneries to source the best quality sardines, and offers them in a deliciously-crazy menu. Canned, grilled, fried, in beignets, on toast, with pescadou sauce or confite… Sardines in all its forms and shapes, all equally exquisite. The menu also offers delicious antipastos and dishes featuring cod, urchin and squid. After you eat, you can also purchase the cans of sardines to go. 

Eat: La Femina

In the heart of the Noalle quarter (the North-African quarter, described as “Marseille’s stomach”) La Femina is the place to go if you want to indulge in an authentic couscous. Portions are very generous and the taste is amazing. Your meal is served in traditional clay dishware, with wooden spoons, and with a fiery side of harissa sauce.

Marseille Guide – Part 1 summary:

Do: 

• Le Panier
• Musée de la Vieille Charité
• Cathédral de La Major
• MUCEM
• Fort St Jean

Eat: 

• Le Clan Des Cigales
• Maison Geney
• Vanille Noir
• Les Navettes des Accoules
• Sard’in
•  La Femina

Marseille Guide – Part 2 Coming soon … 

The post Marseille Guide – Part 1 appeared first on Pardon Your French.