Do : La Plage des Catalans

La Plage des Catalans is a well-known site in Marseilles where locals congregate as soon as the sun rises. It is only a short walk from the center (the Old Port) to reach the beach; which will make you envious about the quality of life the locals enjoy (living in a vibrant city, while always a few minutes away from a swim in the Mediterranean). If you go during the day, you might have a hard time finding a spot for your beach towel, but if you arrive early enough in the morning like we did, you’ll be able to enjoy the serenity of the site.

Do: La Corniche

From La Plage des Catalans, we strolled south along the iconic Marseille’s “Corniche”, a scenic sea-side roadway stretching along the Mediterranean and offering great views of the Iles du Friouls. Along the way, we meandered along villas and hotels before reaching the picturesque Vallon des Auffes. 

Do : Le Vallon des Auffes

Nestled between two walls of pastel houses, the Vallon des Auffes is a semi-rugged, semi-charming fisherman’s haven in a creek, inhabited by fisher’s cabins and boats – some of them still in use. If one word were to define it, I’d choose: picturesque. The Vallon stricks with its colorfulness and peaceful atmosphere (or at least, when we visited late morning) and seems such a far way from the hustle and bustle of the big city. The Vallon is also well-known for hosting dining gems, including restaurant Chez Fonfon, that’s said to offer the best Bouillabaise in Marseilles. Sadly we didn’t get a chance to taste it (but that’s for another time I am sure). Instead, we simply turned out heads right, and entered the neighboring building of Chez Jeannot …

Eat : Chez Jeannot

Snuggled in the middle of the postcard like scenery that is The Vallon des Auffes, Chez Jeannot is an establishment in Marseilles, known for making the absolute best pizza. Naturally, we had to try it for ourselves. We sat on the terrace outside, and ordered a plate of sliced tomatoes topped with a creamy burrata and a simple tomato pizza with black olives and anchovies . Now, if you are wondering… Yes, the pizza was absolutely delicious, but it was the burrata plate that turned this lunch into one of the best food experiences of our lives. It was the most lavish, creamiest, luscious burrata we had ever enjoyed. I am still to this day beating myself up for not asking our server where they sourced it. 

Eat : Bistro L’Horloge

After this once-in-a-lifetime meal, we made our way back to the Old Port of Marseille (35-40 minutes walk). To finish off our last day in Marseille with a kick, we booked a table at L’Horloge, lured by the dazzling reviews we found of this bistro online, and also because it is ideally located on the buzzing Cours Honore D’Estienne D’Orves, also knows as “Place aux Huiles”. We started our meal on the busy patio, with a glass of rose and a plate of panisses (chickpea flour fries, the typical pre-dinner snack in Marseille), and then devoured a plate of grilled octopus and another of gnocchi – both equaly delicious.  The cuisine was simple but generous, in a lively atmosphere. A perfect ending to our trip.

And that’s the wrap on my 3-day guide to Marseille, which I hope enticed your curiosity of visiting the city. Closing this guide with a short and sweet conclusion on why Marseille is a gem that you should absolutely experience will be difficult, but I’ll try.

There’s a lot being said about Marseille (especially in France) – some of it good, some of it bad (pretty bad). But I think this is part of the magic about Marseille.

I have never visited a city so culturally diverse and vibrant, yet so French. So beautiful and pleasing to the eye, yet so unharmonious. So welcoming and warm, yet so noisy and complex.

I had spent most of my life imagining Marseille with some anxiety. But today, I have the most positive outlook on Marseille and find its beauty in its humanity and respect. The city’s myriads of faces, identities, cultures and religions appear to have a striking mutual respect for one another (or at least the foundations for it, which is already more than most other French cities.)

Marseille is a city of contrasts and contradictions, nurtured by a fierce pride. Where the good and the bad co-exist, and need each other to make Marseille what it is today. A real place, with real people.

You might also like: 

• Marseille Guide – Part 1 
• Marseille Guide – Part 2 
• A Day in Lille, Capital of French Flanders
• A Day at Mont Saint Michel 

The post Marseille Guide – Part 3 appeared first on Pardon Your French.

Porto, Europe’s New Hot Spot ? – 

As we were spending a few weeks in my hometown in France, my husband and I decided to hop on a plane and treated ourselves with a 3 day stay in Porto. Did we expect to fall in love with Porto? I would say no. But fresh fish, port wine and picturesque strolls were enough to entice us. Did we fall in love with Porto? You bet we did!

Unassuming at first, Porto savagely depicts soaring woven streets of crumbly façades, lavish baroque churches, and flamboyant splashes of azulejos (traditional hand-painted blue tiles). But as we ventured behind the shadows of these cultural vestiges, we were hit by bustling modernity and a jubilant crowd.

All around the city, it truly felt like a revival was in full-swing. And it might just be the food scene where the evolution was the most spectacular to us.

Where to Eat & Drink in Portugal’s Food Capital – 

Surely, the Portuguese are very proud of their gastronomic heritage, and eating traditional specialities in one of the tasquinhas (typical tavern) is still a must, to capture a sense of the local atmosphere. Traditionally, you will have a choice between the infamous Francesinnha sandwich or a plate of Bacalhau à moda Do Porto (dried and salted cod served on a bed of onions, tomatoes, potatoes and olives), along with a Super Bock beer or sparkly sangria.  And for dessert, fit in a typical Porto éclair (from Leitaria Da Quinta Do Paco) or drop-by the world-renowned Café Majestic (where J.K Rowling began to write the adventures of a certain Harry Potter) for sweet treats and a decadent hot chocolate.

My Favorite Places and Food Finds – 

Once you’ve completed this food mission, I suggest you try these other addresses I am sharing with you today. Some traditional. Some modern. Some well-known. Some underrated.

All tested, approved and raved about.

Although I have no pretention to offer a proficient food guide of the city, I still pledge that these exquisite spots will take on you on a marvellous food adventure in Porto. Bon appétit, or aproveite sua refeição!

Ribeira

Spinning along the Douro River, the streets of Ribeira takes you on a one-of-a-kind picturesque and hypnotic experience. The crumbling pastel facades of this historical district – a Unesco World Heritage site – hang over the beating heart of the city and offer an iconic view to the gawkers sailing on their rabelos (the traditional port wine cargo boats). Perched on the Muro dos Bacalhoeiros (a segment of the town’s medieval wall), we picked Bacalhau for our first dinner, a tiny restaurant with tables hanging right from the stone hedge, with a stunning view over the river. If you are yearning for a true taste of the Portuguese Bacalhau (cod fish), fresh from the sea, you are in the right place.  As a starter, try the Chips De Bacalhau (cod skins chips) served with an outrageous tomato cream. Then, opt for the Arroz de Bacalhau: perfectly fried cod tongues laid on a bed of succulent tomato rice. 

✎    Bacalhau Restaurant, Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 154

Cais da Ribeira

From dusk to dawn, the Cais da Ribeira (the main esplanade along the Douro River) never empties. The scenic and much-frequented walkway offers locals and vacationers a puzzling selection of touristy cafes, fancy lounge bars and seemingly-authentic/seemingly-fresh seafood brasseries. In the middle of the turmoil, stands a little gem of creamery – Finzi Gelato – serving amazing batches of house-crafted ice-creams. Their speciality, the peanut ice-cream, is an absolute wonder. For those wondering, it does not taste like peanut butter… no, it’s pure and pristine peanut taste. If you are in a fruitier mood, try the yogurt and blueberry flavour, for the perfect tart and peppy mix. Needless to say we dropped by everyday (and maybe more than once a day …).

✎  Finzi Gelato, Cais da Ribeira 45

Along the Rio Douro 

Further west along the Douro Shores, in a quieter neighborhood you will find Papavinhos, a small, family-run restaurant serving authentic and local food. Don’t be fooled by its unassuming looks, the eatery is the great delight of locals and tourists, and you will most likely need a reservation if you want a chance to dine there. The plates are generous and cheap. There are no gourmet recipes here, just real, genuine food served by the friendly owner. Try the octopus in spicy oil, as a starter, or as a main in the form of an epic giant tentacle. For dessert, treat yourself with one of the owner’s wife’s home-made desserts – we had the cookie cream in a jar… it was to die for.

✎  Papavinhos, Rua Monchique, 23

Rua Das Flores

While you take a stroll in the bustling Rua Das Flores, make sure to stop by the charming Chocolataria Das Flores. The lovely façade and cozy café built its fame on its artisan chocolates and homestyle brunch menu (quiches, salads and pies). But I myself was enticed by the tiny counter inside, displaying a luscious-looking choice of baked goods, including some scrumptious Pastels de Nata, the traditional Portuguese egg tarts. At this point, you just don’t have any other choice but to try one, or two.

✎  Chocolataria das Flores, Rua das Flores, 121

Further down the street, sit down on Confeitaria Bella Doce’s patio and revel in some people watching and a couple of bolos (Portuguese cakes). If you are being sage, have a simple Queque (the Portuguese version of a muffin) or a Chocolate Croissant. But if you are in a naughtier mood, succumb to a scrumptious Coconut Macaroon (it was the best I had in my entire life!).  Terribly sweet, sticky and sinful… but oh so worth it.

✎  Confeitaria Bella Doce, Rua das Flores, 303

Avenida dos Aliados

It is an unfamiliar fact, but Porto’s locals are deeply in love with stewed tripe. So much so, that they proudly embrace the epithet of “Tripeiros” (tripe eaters). If you wander around the fancy Aliados District on a Sunday, make a lunch stop like we did at the Guarany Café, one of the last survivors of authentic Portuguese bistros in the city. As we were being charmed by the glitzy decors, we started with a delicious and creamy Caldo Verde, a cabbage and potato soup. Then, of course, we gorged on the infamous Tripas A Moda Do Porto: tripes cooked with white beans and chunks of pork, chicken and beef.  Rich, flavourful, yet humble. A must-try. 

✎  Guarany Café, Avenida dos Aliados, 85/89

Mercado do Bolhão

 While in the Mercado do Bolhão, lose track of time and get lost in aisles of seasonal fruits and veggies, generous meat chops and fresh fish feasts. Just before noon hits, follow the smell of grilled sardines coming from the center square of the market, sit down by one of the bustling fish-stands and prepare yourself for one heck of a meal. We wanted that craggy, real Portuguese food experience, and we got it. Make sure to order the spicy clams, small fried sardines and a plate of freshly grilled large sardines. The shell’s insides were tender and oozy; the fish came crisp and salty; the scratched-written bill displayed shades of oil stains and our fingers stunk of fried fish for days. Just the way market fish should be enjoyed.

✎  Mercado do Bolhão, Rua de Fernandes Tomás

Vila Nova de Gaia

Of course, no trip to Porto would be complete without a tasting of Port Wine. The city’s iconic wine lodges (where the wines are stored for ageing, until ready to export) have found the perfect nest in Vila Nova de Gaia, on the southern banks of the Douro. To cross the river and access Vila Nova Gaia, walk on the majestic double-decker Ponte de Dom Luís I, which will offer you a sky-high miradouro (lookout) over the banks.

Once passed through the busy bar facades, chances are you will be tantalized by the sinuous hilly backstreets of the valley. Grand lacy wine cellar gates will great you one after the other – but if you are looking for a quieter experience, Croft Caves will be your choice.

This small but elegant family-own cellar, offers English tasting tours which takes its visitors through the entrails of their peaceful stone cellar. As we entered, the musty scent of aging woods and mellow grapes produced a soothing atmosphere, and the staff honoured the genuine, humble spirit of the establishment. On the tour, we learnt all about the fascinating making and ageing of port wine, and reveled in hearing about the ancient rumours and current gossips stirring the lives of the multiple wineries lodged along the Douro River.

Far less notorious (and frilly) than Taylors, Sandeman or Offley, tiny Croft was nonetheless the very first winery to produce Port Rosé – a subtly sweet and sparkly fruity wine, perfect for the warm summer nights or paired with dessert during the winter season. We ended the tour on a high note with a tasting of their 10-year old Tawny (A Tawny Port is a blend of older vintage wines, displaying a rich amber color), by far the best Port wine I have ever tasted.

✎  Croft, Rua Barão de Forrester, 412 – Vila Nova de Gaia

Address Book

For the best Francesinha in Porto – 

✎ Café Santiago, Rua de Passos Manuel, 266

For the refined, modern decor and  the fluffiest Porto eclairs – 

✎ Leitaria Da Quinta Do Paco, Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, 47/51

For the stunning Art Nouveau Decor and the best hot chocolate – 

✎ Café Majestic, Rua Santa Catarina, 112

For the romantic river-side setting, the crispy Chips De Bacalhau (cod skin chips) and Arroz de Bacalhau Pot ( fried cod tongues in tomatoe rice) – 

✎   Bacalhau Restaurant, Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 154

For a sun-bathed patio and the best peanut ice-cream – 

✎  Finzi Gelato, Cais da Ribeira 45

For the friendly owner, the octopus and the scrumptious wife’s owner home-made desserts

✎  Papavinhos, Rua Monchique, 23

For the brunch menu, the pastel de nata (egg tart) and artisan chocolates – 

✎  Chocolataria das Flores, Rua das Flores, 121

For people watching and traditional pastries (queque, pastel de nata, chocolate croissant and coconut macaroon) – 

✎  Confeitaria Bella Doce, Rua das Flores, 303

For the autentic bistro-feel, the creamy caldo verde (cabbage & potatoe soup) and a plate of Tripes A Moda Da Porto

✎  Guarany Café, Avenida dos Aliados, 85/89

For the bustling atmosphere, the fried and grilled sardines and fresh clams – 

✎  Mercado do Bolhão, Rua de Fernandes Tomás

 For a genuine, family-own port wine cellar visit and a glass of refreshing Port Wine Rosé– 

✎  Croft Caves, Rua Barão de Forrester, 412 – Vila Nova de Gaia

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