The misconceptions about Niçoise Salad

Nicoise Salad – in French, Salade Niçoise – is a classic salad hailing from the city of Nice in Provence, France. This beloved dish is known throughout the world… But do you know the “real” Niçoise Salad? Its recipe has always fueled much controversy, with its original version being modified outside French borders. 

The original Niçoise Salad was born in the 19^th century, in Nice, on the French Riviera on the Meditteranean coast. It was made simply from sourcing local produce – tomatoes, bell peppers, radishes and onions – all meant to be enjoyed raw with a drizzle of olive oil.

Hard-boiled eggs, olives and anchovies were added later on, as the salad became more popular. But perhaps most importantly, according to almost all locals and purists, La Niçoise has never included other cooked ingredients like green beans and potatoes.

Paul Bocuse, one of the most prominent chefs of French cuisine, has always maintained that a true Niçoise Salad shouldn’t be more than an humble mix of raw ingredients, along with seasonal add-ons such as fava beans or artichokes.

Chef August Escoffier, however, wrote in his 1903’s Le Guide Culinaire, a recipe for Niçoise Salad that includes cooked green beans and potatoes – which remains very controversial to this day.

His recipe was later embraced by Julia Child in her world-renowned cookbook Mastering The Art of French Cuisine – only adding to the confusion as to why the Niçoise Salad is mostly known to be made with green beans and potatoes on the international scene.

The authentic Salade Niçoise recipe

To sum things up, the authentic Salade Niçoise is all about using fresh and local produce, all meant to be enjoyed raw. Cooked proteins like boiled eggs, tuna, and anchovies can be added, especially when serving the Niçoise for celebrations or larger crowds.

I know this might surprise many of you, but for the purists, adding green beans, potatoes, or rice is a total faux pas! Despite this, even in France, many restaurants serve so-called Niçoise Salads with green beans and/or potatoes – likely to make them more substantial and filling.

To me, the debate around Salade Niçoise is a perfect illustration of the eternal argument over recipe authenticity, which is always a hot topic in France. With time, recipes evolve – does this make them less authentic?

I myself cooked French recipes while living in Canada for 12 years, using ingredients available in North America. This sometimes meant making substitutions and tweaks. Were my recipes then less authentic? The debate is endless.

The recipe I am sharing here is what’s considered a truly authentic Niçoise Salad. If you want to add beans, potatoes, rice, or other ingredients to fit your taste, go ahead! Will the salad be less authentic? That’s up to you to decide! I don’t think your stomach will disagree either way.

Ingredients you’ll need for the Niçoise Salad recipe

The assembly of an authentic Niçoise Salad follows the rule of a typical French “Salade Composée” (composed salad). This means the ingredients are meant to be thoughtfully arranged on a serving plate, rather than simply tossed together.

Take your time to source fresh, seasonal produces to get as close to the real deal as possible – as though you were feasting on the French Riviera.  It truly makes a difference.

1. Eggs.  You need two hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters, for this salad. Read below for my tips to cook perfect hard-boiled eggs.
2. Fava beans. I love the nutty and creamy texture of fava beans, that constrasts deliciously with the other crisp raw ingredients of this salad. In the Spring and early Summer, look for fresh fava beans in their pods. You can read my instructions below for preparing them. Fresh podded fava beans that you find in market stalls vary greatly in size: pea-sized small during early Spring and up to 1.5-inches long at the height of the season. The ones used for an authentic Salade Niçoise should be the smaller ones, referred to as ”févettes” (little favas) in French. They are younger, hence more tender. In the late Summer, when they aren’t in season anymore you can find Fava beans in cans (cooked).
3. Tomatoes. Ripe, juicy, seasonal tomatoes are best for this salad, such as heirloom or round.
4. Bell pepper, cucumber, radishes. These three vegetable bring the crunch to this salad! Choose them seasonal, firm and crisp. The idea is to cut them all into bite-size pieces so the salad is enjoyable to eat.
5. Onions. The onions are enjoyed raw, so I recommend opting for Summer onions as they have a sweeter, less tangy taste. You can also opt for green or red onions, but I don’t recommend yellow onions which are too sharp in taste.
6. Black olives. It’s not a surprise that “Niçoises” are the olives of choice to go in a Niçoise Salad. This dark-brown to black olive variety grows primarily in and around the French Riviera. Olives Nicoises are small, with a large pit and little flesh, which makes them allthemore exquisite. They taste nutty, briny and slightly bitter. They are widely available in France, and can often be found in the international aisles of grocery stores in the USA.  As a substitute, you can opt for Kalamata olives – pitted or unpitted.
7. Anchovies and tuna. While purists will tell you to never mix anchovies and tuna in a Niçoise Salad, I can’t resist using both. Canned white tuna and anchovies in olive oil work perfectly here. Use quality canned solid tuna in oil. I don’t recommend chunk light for this recipe. Make sure you drain them very well before adding to the salad plates.
8. Garlic. Rub a garlic clove onto your serving plates before dressing up the salad. It gives a very subtle, but lovely aroma.
9. Lettuce. Although optional, I like to use butterhead lettuce, also known as Boston or Bibb, as a canvas for building this salad. Tear it into large pieces and place them on each serving plate. You can then add all the other ingredients on top.
10. The dressing. While most French salads are dressed up with tangy vinaigrettes of various oils, vinegars and mustards, the authentic Niçoise Salad prefers to keep things simple. The juice from the drained tomatoes are kept and then simply stirred with EVOO and spiked with fresh basil leaves. This makes for a very light dressing that lets the addicting saltiness of the anchovies and olives take center stage.  

How to cook Fava beans? 

Fava beans are a popular ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine and a star of this salad. For best results, get your hands on fresh fava beans in their pods. They do require a bit of time and labor to prepare and cook, but are well worth it! Here is a basic method. 

1. Set a large pot of water to the boil. Meanwhile, pop your fava beans out of the pod. Get a large bowl of ice water ready on the side.
2. When the water boils, add 2 tablespoons of salt.  Toss in the fava beans and let them boil 1 to 2 minutes, just until they float to the water’s surface.
3. Transfer them immediatly to the ice water bowl, to stop the cooking process. The beans should slowly sink to the bottom of the bowl. 
4. Using your thumbnails, remove the outer shells of the fava beans. They are now ready to be enjoyed. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I prepare this salad ahead of time?

Yes, absolutely, this is a great salad to prepare ahead. You can assemble the salad onto the plates up to 2 hours before serving. Simply add the dressing just before serving.

Can I use seared tuna instead of canned ?

It is traditional to use canned tuna in oil for a Salade Niçoise. But here again, I have seen homecooks and restaurants twisting their Niçoise Salad with cooked tuna steaks, cut in chunks. So if you prefer to sear some tuna, please do!  Ideally serve it medium-rare, but as always, cook it how you prefer.

What is a good substitute for Niçoise Olives ?

If you can’t find Niçoise olives for this salad, Kalamata olives are a solid substitute. Both varieties yield a similar creamy texture with a strong briny taste. Kalamata olives are usually larger, so you won’t need as many as you would with Niçoises.

Audrey’s cooking tips

• This recipe is ideal for 2 people, but the quantities can easily be doubled or tripled to serve to a larger crowd.

I hope you’ll love this classic Niçoise Salad recipe as much as I do. If you have any questions, please leave a comment. 

More French Salads to try: 

• Green Bean Potato Salad
• French-style Rice and Tuna Salad
• French Grated Carrot Salad (Carottes rapées)
• French-style Potato Salad
• Piemontaise Potato Salad
• Frisée Salad with bacon, eggs and croutons (Salade Lyonnaise)
• Classic French Lentil Salad 
• Cucumber Salad with crème fraiche
• Classic French Celery Root Remoulade
• Classic Parisian Salad (Salade Parisienne)
• French Lentil Salad with tomatoes and cucumbers

Authentic Niçoise Salad

Print Recipe

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 5.0/5

( 2 voted )

Ingredients

2 large eggs
1 small butterhead lettuce (Bibb, Boston)
200g fava beans, cooked and cooled (about 500 g shelled beans) 
2 medium tomatoes or 1 large heirloom
1 can tuna in oil (80g total, about 50g after oil drained) 
½ green bell pepper
½ cucumber
6 pink radishes bulbs
½ large summer onion (white part only)
50g Nicoises olives (or black olives), pitted or unpitted
8-10 anchovy fillets, drained
4 fresh basil leaves, rougly chopped
2 tbsp (30ml) extra virgin oive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
Salt, pepper to taste

Instructions

Step 1 - Make the hard-boiled eggs. In a small pot, cover the eggs with cold water by an inch. Heat the pot on high heat to bring the water to a boil. Turn off the heat, cover the pot with a lid (keep it on the hot burner) and let sit for exactly 10 minutes. Drain the water, run cold water over the eggs to stop the cooking process and peel once cooled enough to touch.

Step 2 – Prepare the lettuce. Tear the lettuce into large pieces. Wash under cold water and set aside on a cloth or paper towel to dry.

Step 3 - Prepare the vegetables. Cut the tomatoes into bite-sized cubes, transfer into a bowl and toss with ½ tsp of salt so they render some of their juices. Set aside. Seed and cut the green bell pepper into thin strips. Peel and cut the ½ cucumber in half (lenghtwise), seed the inside by gliding the tip of a spoon across the length of the flesh, and cut into ¼-inch thick half-rounds. Slice the radishes into thin slices. Cut the summer onion into thin slices (discard ends). Peel and cut the hard-boiled eggs in quarters.

Step 4 - Assemble the salad. Rub the cut garlic clove onto the bottom of two serving plates. Place lettuce pieces evenly onto the plates. In a large bowl, stir together the fava beans, green bell peppers, cucumber, radishes, green onions, olives, and diced tomatoes - keep the juices aside. Scatter evenly onto the two plates. Top with equal parts of anchovies, tuna chunks and finally the halved eggs.

Step 6 – Make the dressing. Stir 2 tablespoons (30ml) of extra-vrigin olive oil with the remaining juice of the tomatoes. Add chopped basil leaves, salt and pepper to taste and drizzle the dressing onto each plate, just before serving.

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Chickpeas in  Provençal Cuisine

Originating from the Middle-East, chickpeas (“pois chiche”, in French) are widely consumed in Mediterranean regions, including Provence in Southern France. Chickpea flour, notably, is the base of most Provencal street-food, include the “Socca” in Nice, the “Cade” in Toulon and the little fried “Panisses” in Marseille (a recipe you can find in my cookbook).  

It is also common in Provence to cook and enjoy chickpeas stewed with tomatoes and in salads along with staple fixings from the local repertoire: olives, anchovies, herbs… just like in today’s recipe.  

The Recipe

This chickpea salad is traditionally made for Palm Sunday – the Sunday before Easter. A few stories explain this custom… Some believe that Christ crossed a field of chickpeas before entering Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. Some others see it as a memory from the 15th century, when a ship full of chickpeas docked in the city of Toulon (others will tell you Marseille, or Fréjus…), saving people from famine. 

This salad recipe is a delicious blend of flavors and texture at every bite. The chickpeas bring creaminess and nutty notes, the olives and anchovies pack a salty punch and the celery add a fresh crunch. The salad is finished off with zippy green onions and fresh herbs, and a simple dressing made from olive oil, vinegar and anchovy oil, for extra depth of flavor.  

This Provençal Chickpea Salad recipe is quick and simple, filling and nutritious. It is made in less than 15 minutes and easy scalable to make for 6, or just 2 people. Serve it as a starter, a side or on it own. It also keeps well, so you can prepare it ahead of time and pack it up for a savory lunch on the go. 

Cooking notes: 

• For rapidity and convenience, I use a can of cooked chickpeas (drained). 
• Taste and adjust your seasonings! My tip for making a great salad is tasting and adjusting as you season your salad, until you reach the flavors you love. You may need an extra drizzle of oil and an extra pinch of salt… taste to find out! 
• Save some parsley and green onions aside for garnishing before serving. They’ll add a nice freshness to the salad. 
• Other traditional Provencal fixings that go perfectly into this salad are thin slices of bottarga (very popular in Provence), diced cucumber and/or cherry tomatoes. 

I hope you’ll love this  Provençal Chickpea Salad with Olives, Anchovies and Celery as much as I do! 

You may also like:

• Cod Provencal with Caper, Tomatoes & Olives
• French-Style Couscous Salad
• Herby Sugar-glazed Spring Vegetable Jardiniere
• Frisée with bacon and eggs

Provençal Chickpea Salad with Olives, Anchovies and Celery

Print Recipe

Serves: 2-6 people Prep Time: 15 Minutes

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 4.0/5

( 13 voted )

Ingredients

350g cooked chickpeas, drained (= 1 large 540ml/19floz can)
1 large celery stalk, finely sliced (ends removed)
100g black olives
6-8 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 green onions (or scallions), finely sliced – green ends removed
7-8 sprigs curly parsley, stemmed and finely chopped
1 tbsp (15ml) Wine vinegar (red or white)
½ tsp salt
1/4 tsp cumin
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)
2 tbsp (30ml) Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Instructions

Step 1 - In a large bowl, combine chickpeas, sliced celery, olives, anchovies (reserve the oil), parsley and green onions (keep some parsley and green onion aside for garnish). 

Step 2 - In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and salt. Whisk with a fork until the salt has dissolved. Add the cumin, black pepper, EVOO and 1/2 tbsp of the reserved oil from the anchovies. Whisk to combine. 

Pour the dressing over the chickpea salad and toss to combine. 

Before serving, garnish with fresh parsley and green onions.

Did you make this recipe?

I’d love to know how it turned out! Please let me know by leaving a comment below, rate the recipe and/or share a photo on Instagram: tag @pardonyourfrench  and hashtag it #pardonyourfrench.  Bon Appétit! 

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